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Old 09-12-2011, 04:01 PM
molotov molotov is offline
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Default Looking for RO/DI Solution - Calgary

Hey all, I live in SW Calgary and was wondering what my best option for a reverse osmosis system might be. I'm looking for a system and was wondering if I might be able to get away with just an RO system or would I be better off with a RO/DI system.

I wouldn't mind running a supply line to my fridge in addition to supplying water for my aquarium.

Another concern I have is waste water. It kind of makes me sick to waste water as it's such a precious resource that we tend to take for granted. From what I've read the less stages you have the less waste? Also the less GPD the less waste.

All suggestions are greatly appreciated.
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Old 09-12-2011, 04:12 PM
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Morning, first let me start by saying I am only regurgitating info I've learned off the forum. You can of course get by with just RO water, unless of course your source water is that bad, which it isnt cause your in Calgary. But a RO/DI system will ensure that you start off with 0ppm or pure water. From what I have read though you would not want this to be your only source of drinking water, some of the minerals in the water are good for you. RO water I would think would be fine to drink as you can buy RO drinking water

As for the waste water I agree, it seems like such a waste. 5G pure water to 10G waste . All I do to make myself feel better about it is use the waste water for other things in my house such as plants. My plan for the next house is to run the waste water to a rain barrel which I will use for outdoor gardening and the lawn. Im not sure if the number of stages or GPD rating effects the ratio of good/waste water, im sure someone on here will know.
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Old 09-12-2011, 04:25 PM
molotov molotov is offline
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Ya I don't think the tap water in Calgary is all that bad. I believe we just removed flouride from the water so that should help. I was thinking of buying a TDS meter to see what I might be able to get away with as far as an RO system goes. The problem is the readings could be quite different depending on the time of season. For example in the spring when the runoff is high there might be more contaminents in the water than in the fall.
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Old 09-12-2011, 04:36 PM
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Very true, im sure the age of the neighborhood would come into play as well due to piping used and condition its in. Im sure you could find readings online, just a quick google led me to this page,

http://www.calgaryaquariumsociety.co...awi_Water.html
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Old 09-12-2011, 04:44 PM
molotov molotov is offline
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Thats a good link. Thank you. I have also found this:

http://www.calgary.ca/UEP/Water/Docu...ity_report.pdf
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Old 09-12-2011, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by molotov View Post
From what I've read the less stages you have the less waste? Also the less GPD the less waste.
Neither of these are true.

The best you can do is about 1:1 waste but you will probably go through RO membranes quicker. The waste water is used to flush the membrane as you're making water. Less flushing means the membrane clogs up with scaly residue quicker.

I am doing an experiment lately. I have a 150 gpd RO membrane that I am using a 75 gpd flow restrictor on it. My tap is about 60-62 psi. I get about 40 gallons in 8 hours (I think...I should measure). I am getting about 1.25:1 (good:waste). I tested the TDS coming out of the RO (before the DI) at 2 ppm before I started my experiment and I have made about 700 gallons of good water since doing this and the RO membrane is still putting out only 2 ppm. However, I am not getting 1.25:1 anymore as the membrane is getting clogged up which forces more water through the waste line. I recently got some citric acid to soak the membrane in to hopefully remove the scaly deposits...I'm still researching the procedure for this.

Get creative using the waste water. I collect the waste water outside (in the summer months) and use a Mag 3 pump on a hose to water the flower gardens by hand or go to the washing machine where I can use the waste water for the wash cycle. I would suggest a bigger pump because this one is a bit slow...it's just what I have on hand. It is surprising how quickly you can use up waste water in the laundry room! We are getting some stackable laundry machines to make room in the laundry room to keep a waste water bin in there over winter. I am going to install a float switch on that bin because it is inside, and because float switches can be unreliable I will not rely on it. I will still maintain vigilance and try to remember to stop the water before it even gets to the float. Some people keep the water turned on all the time, and use the float switch to automatically turn the water back on as soon as some is used. This is when people have troubles with switches failing, and flooding the house.

Normally I like to support local fish stores, but I like to use Bulk Reef Supply for all RO equipment. They have great prices, really good shipping policies, and particularly because they have everything you need in stock! Don't forget to order a TDS meter. I like handheld meters because they are easier to calibrate and are easier to use when you want to test the TDS coming out of the RO before the DI stage. This is important when figuring out if the RO membrane is exhausted or if only DI is exhausted. I usually replace DI 2-3 times before I need to replace the RO membrane.
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Old 09-12-2011, 05:01 PM
molotov molotov is offline
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Hey Mika, thats funny you replied to my thread. I read a bunch of your posts on the matter last night.

I was still wondering if I can get away with just an RO unit or should I be using a full RO/DI unit? If I can get away with just an RO unit then I can run a line to my fridge as save on the cost of replacing the $75 filter in my fridge every year.

Is there anyone on here in Calgary SW just running on RO unit alone? How has your success been?
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Old 09-12-2011, 05:21 PM
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Hi Molotov

I would really recommend getting a full RO/DI unit. If you don't want to be bothered with the DI stage, just leave it empty. The unit will then run as an RO only unit, but if you ever decide that you want the DI you can always add it back.

Calgary water in my neighborhood tests between 150 and 180 ppm. I have an inline TDS meter right off the water supply and test regularly. Water coming out of my RO before the DI tests around 5-10 ppm after 10 minutes of operation. Water tests 0ppm after the DI chamber.

There are many people that believe you will be fine with just using tap water. I am not one of those people. In my opinion, the path to a stable system is to control as many water parameters as possible. Starting with pure water is somewhat essential to this philosophy. Without using RO/DI water, if your tank is not stable you will be second guessing yourself. Tap water simply introduces another unknown that most people prefer not to deal with.

Perhaps I am biased as we sell RO and RO/DI filters, but I can honestly say that I've been using RO/DI on my tanks for as long as I've been in this hobby and I personally feel that it is essential.

Here's what we carry.

http://www.conceptaquatics.ca/index....s-filters.html

We're in Calgary so pickup would work best.

Thanks

Brad
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Old 09-12-2011, 05:32 PM
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Hello Brad,

I have read A LOT of your threads and value your opinion. I got this link from mika for Bulk Reef Supply. After searching through their site I found what I think is the solution for me.

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/.../category/182/

I would prefer to buy locally from someone such as yourself. Do you carry a unit that facilitates RO/DI as well as drinking water?

Thanks,
Mark
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Old 09-12-2011, 05:39 PM
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Certainly you may use just RO, but in all likelihood you will end up with a trace of TDS at the output. The problem is, there's no way of telling what that 1 or 2 TDS is comprised of. Probably harmless to you & I, but over the long term it will affect what's going into your aquarium. Probably not a big deal, but on the other hand, having the DI stage there is not going to slow down your production that much if at all and the DI media should last a long time if the membrane output is at 1 or 2. Adding the DI stage shouldn't break the bank either. You can still tee off a line after the RO stage to run to your fridge or a drinking faucet, whatever.

You're on the right track to get a handheld TDS meter to test your source water before buying a system. Another good idea is to get a pressure guage, should be less than $20 and not that hard to find. Most hardware stores and certainly irrigation system suppliers will have guages made specifically for measuring water pressure. I picked up two at Princess Auto. You want at least 60 psi for efficient performance. Water pressure, probably more than any other factor will have the greatest impact on production of good as well as waste water. There's more than likely a PRV (Pressure Regulating Valve) in your home plumbing just downstream of the water meter. If you can locate that, chances are it's adjustable. I've tweaked mine to provide just over 80 psi. I think most RO membrane performance numbers are based on 70 psi as well as a certain temperature which I don't recall at the moment.

Had a quick look at the report from the City you linked to and didn't see if they used Chlorine or Chloramine to treat the drinking water. You should confirm which since this will determine whether you need two carbon stages (Chloramine) or just one (Chlorine). I suspect a fellow Calgarian can jump in here & provide that info.
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