Looking for RO/DI Solution - Calgary

[molotov]

Hey Mika, thats funny you replied to my thread. I read a bunch of your posts on the matter last night.

I was still wondering if I can get away with just an RO unit or should I be using a full RO/DI unit? If I can get away with just an RO unit then I can run a line to my fridge as save on the cost of replacing the $75 filter in my fridge every year.

Is there anyone on here in Calgary SW just running on RO unit alone? How has your success been?

[abcha0s]

Hi Molotov

I would really recommend getting a full RO/DI unit. If you don't want to be bothered with the DI stage, just leave it empty. The unit will then run as an RO only unit, but if you ever decide that you want the DI you can always add it back.

Calgary water in my neighborhood tests between 150 and 180 ppm. I have an inline TDS meter right off the water supply and test regularly. Water coming out of my RO before the DI tests around 5-10 ppm after 10 minutes of operation. Water tests 0ppm after the DI chamber.

There are many people that believe you will be fine with just using tap water. I am not one of those people. In my opinion, the path to a stable system is to control as many water parameters as possible. Starting with pure water is somewhat essential to this philosophy. Without using RO/DI water, if your tank is not stable you will be second guessing yourself. Tap water simply introduces another unknown that most people prefer not to deal with.

Perhaps I am biased as we sell RO and RO/DI filters, but I can honestly say that I've been using RO/DI on my tanks for as long as I've been in this hobby and I personally feel that it is essential.

Here's what we carry.

http://www.conceptaquatics.ca/index....s-filters.html

We're in Calgary so pickup would work best.

Thanks

Brad

[molotov]

Hello Brad,

I have read A LOT of your threads and value your opinion. I got this link from mika for Bulk Reef Supply. After searching through their site I found what I think is the solution for me.

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/.../category/182/

I would prefer to buy locally from someone such as yourself. Do you carry a unit that facilitates RO/DI as well as drinking water?

Thanks,
Mark

[abcha0s]

Originally Posted by molotov

Hello Brad,

I have read A LOT of your threads and value your opinion. I got this link from mika for Bulk Reef Supply. After searching through their site I found what I think is the solution for me.

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/.../category/182/

I would prefer to buy locally from someone such as yourself. Do you carry a unit that facilitates RO/DI as well as drinking water?

Thanks,
Mark

Hi Mark

Thanks for the kind words. It's a little bit of 'smoke and mirrors' mixed in with lots of research.

As much as I'd really like to sell you one of the Vertex RO/DI units, I have to admit that the BRS unit is probably what you are looking for. Keep us in mind for any of the other things you might need.

I'm impressed by how much feedback this thread generated. There are some really good ideas posted.

I'd personally recommend an inline TDS meter vs. a hand held one. Other than that, I think you are on the right track.

Thanks

Brad

[Myka]

Brad, why do you like inline TDS meters better? Do you sell one that can be calibrated by the consumer?

[abcha0s]

Originally Posted by Myka

Brad, why do you like inline TDS meters better? Do you sell one that can be calibrated by the consumer?

Hi Myka

As of yet, I don't think we stock any TDS meters. That said, they kind of go hand in hand with RO units, so perhaps we should.

I own two dual stage inline TDS meters. Both can be calibrated, but i have never done so. Personally, I'm not as interested in an accurate reading as
I am about a change from a known baseline parameter.

If my tap water is 100ppm or 200ppm, I don't really care. It is interesting to see if in the spring with the snow melt and run off the TDS increases, but it's not an important reading to me.

I am interested in the TDS between the RO and DI as well as the TDS between the DI and the Resevoir. These measurements tell me when to replace my membrane and when to replace my resin. With an inline monitor, I can see the effect of flushing the membrane in real-time and I can time how long it takes to reach peak performance.

For example, I know that it takes almost 5 minutes of flushing to bring the TDS down below 10ppm after the RO membrane, so I have a solenoid that flushes for 5 minutes once a day when the unit comes on.

I'm also not too concerned about whether my TDS is 0ppm or 1ppm as long as it doesn't start shifting too much. I know the calibration is reasonably accurate because when I change the DI resin the monitor reads 0ppm.

For my application, these sensors really must be inline to be effective.

- Brad

[molotov]

Hey Brad/Myka/Blom,

Thanks for your input. It really helped quite a bit. I ordered the unit along with the pieces I think will be best for my needs. I did do quite a bit of research myself before I posted this thread so I'll also post what I purchased. I hope it will help others in their decision making.

• 75 GPD RO/DI 5 Stage Drinking and Reef Water System
• Membrane Flush Kit
• 150 GPD Water Saving Upgrade Kit
• Glycerin Filled Pressure Gauge 1-100 PSI
• Dual Inline TDS Meter DM-1 HM Digital

I figure If I'm going to buy a reverse osmosis kit I might as well incorporate it into our drinking water if I can as well. That way it will save me on fridge, brita filters and whatever else I can save on.

I don't like wasting water so I purchased the Water Saving Kit.

The pressure guage I think was a cheap piece and if these things work better at a certain psi I will know what psi I have in my house.

Brad, I agree with what you said about the Inline TDS Meter. Knowing when to flush/change your filters is key to getting the most from your RO unit; both after the RO stage and after the DI stage. Who wants to be playing guessing games with their equipment. Taking the guess work out is key. Plus it was a cheap add-on.

Thanks and I hope this will help others.

Mark

[mike31154]

Certainly you may use just RO, but in all likelihood you will end up with a trace of TDS at the output. The problem is, there's no way of telling what that 1 or 2 TDS is comprised of. Probably harmless to you & I, but over the long term it will affect what's going into your aquarium. Probably not a big deal, but on the other hand, having the DI stage there is not going to slow down your production that much if at all and the DI media should last a long time if the membrane output is at 1 or 2. Adding the DI stage shouldn't break the bank either. You can still tee off a line after the RO stage to run to your fridge or a drinking faucet, whatever.

You're on the right track to get a handheld TDS meter to test your source water before buying a system. Another good idea is to get a pressure guage, should be less than $20 and not that hard to find. Most hardware stores and certainly irrigation system suppliers will have guages made specifically for measuring water pressure. I picked up two at Princess Auto. You want at least 60 psi for efficient performance. Water pressure, probably more than any other factor will have the greatest impact on production of good as well as waste water. There's more than likely a PRV (Pressure Regulating Valve) in your home plumbing just downstream of the water meter. If you can locate that, chances are it's adjustable. I've tweaked mine to provide just over 80 psi. I think most RO membrane performance numbers are based on 70 psi as well as a certain temperature which I don't recall at the moment.

Had a quick look at the report from the City you linked to and didn't see if they used Chlorine or Chloramine to treat the drinking water. You should confirm which since this will determine whether you need two carbon stages (Chloramine) or just one (Chlorine). I suspect a fellow Calgarian can jump in here & provide that info.

[molotov]

Hey Mike, I also read some of your old threads on this topic as well. I think I must have read the thread where yourself and Mika went over this topic. I haven't looked for the valve you mentioned yet but will do so probably tonight. I suspect I shouldn't have an issue with water pressure as my house is not lacking in that department.

I also just stumbled on a water saving upgrade kit from the same supplier.

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/...grade-kit.html

I think I'm getting closer and closer to finding the solution that will work best for me.

Thank you all for your input. It is very much appreciated. I thought this is probably the very foundation on which I will build so I want to make sure it's done right the first time.

[Myka]

That upgrade kit works essentially the same way I am working my system except I am using one 150 gpd membrane instead of two 75 gpd. The way they do it is "safer" for the membrane, but I'm getting more efficiency. Also be aware that you need 65 psi through your tap for the water to actually come out at 150 gpd whether you use one or two membranes.

Originally Posted by molotov

I was still wondering if I can get away with just an RO unit or should I be using a full RO/DI unit? If I can get away with just an RO unit then I can run a line to my fridge as save on the cost of replacing the $75 filter in my fridge every year.

Split the line after the RO. Run one of those lines to your fridge, then the other to your DI (which then runs to your RO/DI storage container). I'm not sure how the plumbing on a fridge works though...do you have a pressure tank for it, or does it run off tap pressure?

Originally Posted by molotov

After searching through their site I found what I think is the solution for me.

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/.../category/182/

This looks like a good idea for you, but I don't think you would need the pressure storage tank for your fridge...? I would think if you need a storage tank that you would already have it? I don't know much about plumbing the fridge.