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  #41  
Old 10-07-2010, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by StirCrazy View Post
I just cut away the trim where the actual overflow is.

Steve
Wonder how that works with bracing? Brace just covers the top of the cutout?
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  #42  
Old 10-07-2010, 09:04 PM
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...
For those using external overflows, is your tank trimless, or how have you dealt with that?
My new tank is coming with a 40" external overflow and 48 slotted teeth, along with an 8" eurobrace. I am curious how they attached it as well, I suspect that it will be welded to the eurobrace along the top of the teeth.
It should be here in the next couple of weeks.

Mitch
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  #43  
Old 10-07-2010, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquattro View Post
Wonder how that works with bracing? Brace just covers the top of the cutout?

like a euro brace? or center brace? if its a center brace hmmm.. you would be losing the adhesive surface, would almost be better to remove it and put two smaller ones 1/3 from each end. this would be better for the lights also. maybe ask Sea star if they are ripping it apart to re seal it anyways they might have some good ideas on how to do it.

what ever you end up doing if you cut teeth again I'll slap ya next time I am in victoria. nice smoth rounded edge, quiet and much easier to keep clean.

Steve
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Last edited by StirCrazy; 10-07-2010 at 09:09 PM.
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  #44  
Old 10-07-2010, 09:05 PM
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Brad - you planning to use an insump or external skimmer?

A setup I did for a friend had a 90g sump (48x18x24). I put in a 23" high glass baffle on one side so the 48" length was split 12"/36". I used the 36" side for the insump skimmer, reactors, return pump. The 12" side was used to hold ~20 gallons of fresh water topoff. In the beginning, we used the 12" side as a holding tank for new fishes to go through hyposalinity treatment over several weeks to get rid of bugs.

As far as internal or external overflow is concern, either way its gonna suck. Internal and it takes up coral real estate. External and it makes the tank shape awkward with protrusions coming out and more plumbing is visible. I have had both and i will stick to the internal. It just gives a more clean-line, finished look

I second the the tiles at the bottom idea if you want the brown sand look right away. or just grow gsp and let it take over the bottom.

One thing I really like on my current 120, i have an older tunze (one speed 6080) pointing straight down on the back wall. This pushes all the detritus out of the rock work, to the inside perimeter of the tank and helps push light detritus up in the water column towards the overflows. It provides great indirect flow and makes cleaning very easy.

good luck
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  #45  
Old 10-07-2010, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by StirCrazy View Post
like a euro brace? or center brace? if its a center brace hmmm..

Steve
eurobrace. Currently the tank has a plastic trim with dual braces, which gotta go.
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  #46  
Old 10-07-2010, 09:21 PM
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Chin, I've got an in-sump skimmer. My current sump is baffled at 45/15 inches, and the 45 section holds the reactors, the smaller chamber contains to pickup for the return pump and the float valve. I'm hoping to use this sump if I can fit it in...

I'm going to have to go external plumbing, just found out the bottom is tempered, so that choice is made for me. I could minimize exposed stuff if I drill the back glass and have an overflow inside, but then I'd still need to be away from the wall, and if so, might as well go with external overflow. I think...

Oh, and I'm going with sand this time. It's going to be a display in the LR, so I'm going for the natural reef look. I also miss all the life in the sand, and GF wants a madarin
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Last edited by Aquattro; 10-07-2010 at 09:25 PM.
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  #47  
Old 10-07-2010, 09:40 PM
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Unless you custom build the tank, external overflows are very difficult to retrofit. How do you get the one section lower than the rest of the tank? A small internal box is much easier.
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  #48  
Old 10-07-2010, 09:43 PM
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could be a dumb question as ive never done it but could you remove the bottom panel and exchange it for the back if they are the same measurements or remove the bottom and add a different piece??? not sure how much it would cost but maybe something to consider so you have the tank you want

what are you doing to support the floor or is it on concrete??
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  #49  
Old 10-07-2010, 09:47 PM
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Unless you custom build the tank, external overflows are very difficult to retrofit. How do you get the one section lower than the rest of the tank? A small internal box is much easier.
I was thinking dremel?? I was told that it's not that difficult (never tried personally tho)

My current tank has a small overflow box internally, not really annoying, but I imagine the tank would be nicer without it
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  #50  
Old 10-07-2010, 09:54 PM
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you can dremel glass?
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