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#2
03-18-2008, 01:17 AM
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I'm using a simple humidifier float valve in my sump hooked up to my ro/di unit. One could also hook up the humidifier float valve to a storage container above the sump holding fresh water. Only one moving part and no electricity involved.
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#3
03-18-2008, 03:17 AM
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Are you planning to go with the resevior style? Or a direct feed from a water filter?
__________________
THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041
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#4
03-18-2008, 01:30 PM
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I would perfer to go to a resevior, then have it pumped, when needed into the sump. I've heard that having your RO unit directly hooked up to the sump, is a recipie for disaster.(just what I've read, don't know for a fact) I don't really have a lot of room above my sump. I have the abilitly to hide it, in another room close to the tank. So I'm looking for ideas for containers, floats, and pumping units, within a reasonable cost. Doug
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#5
03-18-2008, 03:20 PM
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If you got a room next to the tank for a reservoir, you could mount something as simple as a Brute garbage can on a platform, so it would be higher that the water level in your sump. Float valve and your friend gravity.
As for directly connecting 'a recipe for disaster', using a humidifier float valve, I keep going back to how many people have had their basement flooded from their furnace humidifier? I haven't nor know anyone to who it has. Another negative I read is 'TDS creep' again I don't know. I've always seem to stay single digits and when I do get a rise, change filters and DI and the numbers drop down again. It that 'TDS creep' from being hooked directly up or dirty filters and exhausted resin? Been two years trouble free configured like this, just hope I don't go home after work and find my basement flooded after typing this. 
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#6
03-18-2008, 11:12 PM
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I'm still a fan of the Tsunami AT-1. It's worked perfectly for 7 years with absolutely zero maintenance. It uses a change in air pressure to turn on a powerhead in a Brute can reservoir. Should be able to find one for $50-$60.
__________________
Brian ____________________________________________ 220g inwall 48"x36"x30" 110g mangrove refug/sump Poison Dart Frog Vivarium
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#7
03-19-2008, 12:22 AM
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Another float valve that can be used is a Little Giant float valve from Princess Auto (UFA probably has them as well for water troughs.) They cost somewhere around $6. You should remove the brass hinge pin and replace it with an acrylic rod. Mine worked without cleaning or maintenance for years without fail until I sold the sump. I believe I also removed the water line fitting and installed a 1/4" hose John Guest style connection (that's another $2.60
 )Hinge pin replacement (acrylic rod)  The float valve installed  Last edited by kari; 03-19-2008 at 12:33 AM.
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#8
03-19-2008, 01:07 AM
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I've used one of the little giant floats for years in the horse pasture, hasn't failed yet. It's just bolted to the trough, unprotected from the animals. They work well is what I'm saying. I'm sure I got mine at UFA that's about the only place around here to buy stuff like that. Gallagher also makes a similar float, I have no experience with it though.
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