Budget doesn't exist in this hobby: Brian's 45g Build

[Myka]

Wow, you've been busy! Do you want the thread title changed? It's no longer a 29-gallon!

Originally Posted by Etaloche

Ugh ya, another member spit.fire actually offered to drill for me too but at this point the plumbing is complete and I don't want to have to alter it again especially with the added costs of replumbing.

I don't think you'd have to redo the plumbing. Some minor modifications and you'd be on your way. Although not ideal, you could make an internal overflow box in the middle of the back of the tank and have the drains use the same holes you already made in the stand. Ideally, you'd make an overflow in a corner. I'll hop on the "you should drill" boat too.

Originally Posted by Etaloche

Also went and picked up this RO/DI unit from a member here
It was $50 and just thought I'd give it a try. Was expecting a simple 3 stage unit but I think this is 5 stage?

Was told that the DI filter and the RO membrane were almost new when it was taken down.
The unit hasn't been in use for over a year though. Are there any precautions I should take to flush out the system before using?
I'll have to add a TDS meter, pressure gauge, and possibly a flush kit in the future.

Yes, that's a 5-stage. I'd suggest you run it just with the sediment and carbon filters first for 5 gallons or so, then add the RO to it for another 2 gallons (test TDS after the RO while you're at it), then put the DI on and run it for 2 gallons, then test the TDS of the RO/DI water. Just get a handheld TDS meter - they're like $15 or less. Just make sure you buy one that comes with a little screwdriver so you can calibrate it. Some cannot be calibrated.

[Etaloche]

Originally Posted by Bblinks

I think you should drill...

Originally Posted by Myka

I'll hop on the "you should drill" boat too.

Ok I think at this point it'd just be stubborn of me to not take this advice after so many people have tried to tell me to. I came home last night and just tried to visualize how to redo parts of the plumbing.
I'll be asking around and try to get the tank drilled in the next week.

One of the reasons I didn't want to drill/overflow was that because my tank is not very deep, only 12.5 inches so an overflow inside the tank would take up a lot of room.

I'll be trying to fabricate something like this so that it's less intrusive

I even had thoughts of being super ambitious and try to do the Bean Animal method but I don't think my cabinet has room for another plumbing line to run through it haha

Originally Posted by Myka

Ideally, you'd make an overflow in a corner.

I did not know this, thought the overflow could just be anywhere. Could you explain to me why this is the case?
My reasoning for putting in the middle was that it'd be less likely that snails and whatnot would end up there rather than in a corner.

Originally Posted by Myka

Yes, that's a 5-stage. I'd suggest you run it just with the sediment and carbon filters first for 5 gallons or so, then add the RO to it for another 2 gallons (test TDS after the RO while you're at it), then put the DI on and run it for 2 gallons, then test the TDS of the RO/DI water. Just get a handheld TDS meter - they're like $15 or less. Just make sure you buy one that comes with a little screwdriver so you can calibrate it. Some cannot be calibrated.

Alright I'll do this once it's hooked up. I think I will just get an inline one since they're not that expensive and the ease of use is a big appeal to me

Originally Posted by Myka

Do you want the thread title changed? It's no longer a 29-gallon!

Budget doesn't exist in this hobby: Brian's 45g build

Thanks!

[The Guy]

Hey Brian great looking build so far, I think building and putting it all together is the best part of reefing and of course the finished product makes it all worth the work.
See you Saturday

PS: budget what's that?

[Etaloche]

Originally Posted by The Guy

Hey Brian great looking build so far, I think building and putting it all together is the best part of reefing and of course the finished product makes it all worth the work.
See you Saturday

PS: budget what's that?

Couldn't agree with you more, see you tomorrow!

[Myka]

Brian, looking at the overflow you currently have, you could drill the back of your tank to line up with the bulkheads in the front of that overflow. You'd have to use some silicone on the bulkhead threads (inside the overflow) to get a good seal. Drilling through the bottom of an unknown tank can be risky since you don't know if it's tempered or not.

Originally Posted by Etaloche

I did not know this, thought the overflow could just be anywhere. Could you explain to me why this is the case?
My reasoning for putting in the middle was that it'd be less likely that snails and whatnot would end up there rather than in a corner.

Just visually. Since your tank is only 12" wide, an internal overflow will protrude a lot. I'd put it in a back corner. It won't make much, if any difference with the critters. I've never noticed that issue, nor actually thought about that before.

Originally Posted by Etaloche

Alright I'll do this once it's hooked up. I think I will just get an inline one since they're not that expensive and the ease of use is a big appeal to me

The thing about an inline TDS meter is that it only tests that one line. If you have a handheld one then you can test the tap water, you can disconnect the hose between the RO and the DI and check the RO performance and when it needs to be replaced, and you can check the product water after the DI as well. Also, the inline TDS meters can be tricky to get an accurate calibration on them since they need flowing calibration fluid. I find handheld TDS meters easier to use long-term. That's just my preferred method though.

[Etaloche]

Originally Posted by Myka

Brian, looking at the overflow you currently have, you could drill the back of your tank to line up with the bulkheads in the front of that overflow.

I was actually thinking this exact same thing but I ended up picking up a nice unused glass hole overflow from a member here and he gave me a amazingly reasonable price too.
Unfortunately the bulkheads don't quite match up so I'll have to make my own external overflow box since these overflows can't really be set to run herbie or anything.
Anthony offered to help tomorrow at the BBQ to drill the holes for a small fee but since the kit came with a drill bit I might attempt to tackle this myself and save a couple bucks too.
So I've been told that it's ideal to drill holes with a drill that has a clutch but I only have a drill connecting straight to the wall with no clutch that I'm aware of. Is there high risk to use what I have or should I borrow tools that are better?
Also, do the diamond coated drill bits work well on acrylic/polycarbonate? I have a 1" hole saw but these bulkheads on the overflow are 1.5" so I was thinking of just using the drill bits after I cut glass to cut the holes in the external box too.

Originally Posted by Myka

The thing about an inline TDS meter is that it only tests that one line. If you have a handheld one then you can test the tap water, you can disconnect the hose between the RO and the DI and check the RO performance and when it needs to be replaced, and you can check the product water after the DI as well. Also, the inline TDS meters can be tricky to get an accurate calibration on them since they need flowing calibration fluid. I find handheld TDS meters easier to use long-term. That's just my preferred method though.

My inline TDS meter actually arrived today (amazon prime is simply the best), but I might actually just grab a handheld one down the line as they cost almost nothing and you're right, it does sound convenient to have one you can test any water with.