Dt hypo treatment

[Reef Pilot]

Every time I have used hypo, I was 100 % successful. I did have some live rock, and the bristle worms died, but that's all I noticed. I didn't have much for pods in my QT. With all the water changes to get the salinity down, and a mature canister filter, I didn't have any water quality issues.

Of course this was in 30g QT, so can't say what will happen in a large DT full of live rock.

As has been already stated here, and I will say it again very emphatically, be sure to get it down to 1.008 or 9. Use a calibrated refractometer. And keep it there for at least 6 weeks.

If you do this, please let us know how it works. I have never heard of anyone going hypo with a large DT.

[Aquattro]

If you have a spare 175 lying around, I'd drain the DT to get the fish out. I've drained my 180 a couple times now and it's not a big deal if you have something to hold the water for 20 minutes. Siphon out with a 2" dia. hose, pick out fish, pump water back into tank. House them in a temp smaller tank where you can manage treatment better.

[Mike-fish]

Is there any preferred method of treating

[howdy20012002]

I would recommend the hypo as well
you will have some die-off of the worms and such..but the bacteria should be fine as it can adjust to hypo conditions
I personally would take the corals and inverts out with a 1/3 of your life rock
drain half your tank and fill it up with fresh water
sounds scary..but I have done it numerous times
you can than adjust your salinty the next day to bring it down to the .009
(probably about a 1/3 of your tank to be emptied and filled again with fresh water)
leave it like that for 6 weeks just to be safe
and slowly raise your salt over a 3 day period.
I have done it numerous times without problem
I wouldn't recommend copper for ich
if you notice the fish still have ich after a week..then copper is required because you would have one of the rare strain of hypo-resistant ich

if you treat your fish without LR in whatever style you try, you will have to be doing substantial and frequent waterchanges which would be probably problematic for such a long period of time.

[George]

Originally Posted by Mike-fish

Is there any preferred method of treating

A list of methods to treat/QT for marine ich based on order of my preference:
1. Tank transfer
2. Copper
3. Hypo
4. Chloroquine Phosphate
and yes, I tried them all.
There are pros and cons for each method. Make sure you read them all (not only this site but some other sites as well) before you pick one. Above all, understand the life cycle of marine ich is very important regardless which method you pick.
Good luck.

[asylumdown]

Tank transfer method would be my #1 as well, because it's guaranteed to work on the fish. However, the tank transfer with that many large fish would be a logistical nightmare and would be very labor intensive on your part. Tank transfer also doesn't do anything about the encysted tomonts in the display, so after the 12 day transfer protocol was done you'd need to fallow the tank for a couple months.

Hypo would be my next choice, only because it's easy to do and doesn't involve poisoning fish.

Copper would be choice three. And only if you can do it in a separate QT tank with no sand or rock.

Can I ask what's making you decide to do this? Are you losing fish due to the ich, or do you just want it gone?

The only option that doesn't involve fallowing your display tank for 9-10 weeks is the hypo of the display, but man, that's going to be a cycle to stay on top of.

[Mike-fish]

As the ick has been steadily gaining ground and getting worse. I've uped the dose of herbtana to see if that helps. So far I've had no results with it. I haven't lost any fish yet but it's getting to the point that I'm in need of treating it. I had ick in the 175 off and on but between the cleaner wrasse and shrimps I would never see more than 6 spots on the powder blue. ( previous one lost shortly after the upgrade) Neal I thought you were a copper fan.

[scubadawg]

I'm dealing with ich on my 2 heniocus, and up my temp to 82 f, ich is going down, hasn't spread, I pick up a bottle of Herbtana and Kordon Ich attack, have tried medication yet, it I see any on my other fish, then I will medicate, so just adding more garlic into food. It just showed up 2 days ago. The heniocus had ich in my QT, and cupermine them for 3 weeks. Then I transfer to display tank on Feb 14.

[howdy20012002]

i use copper in my quarantines because hypo requires such a long treatment process.
plus hypo doesn't work against marine velvet which can sometimes come in on shipments

[daniella3d]

same here, 100% sucees 3 times. I never got ick in my display tank. I always used liverock in my QT with hypo and that did not destroy the biofilter at all.

It did kill all the pods, stars and bristle worms but that did not impact on the water quality and I never had ammonia in the tank.

I think bad water quality is No1 reason why fish die in QT. I had a Magnum HOT filter with a micron filter and that also help to trop the freeswimming parasites.

I would not do it in a large display tank though. I would move some of the rock into a QT. I was using 0.009 with a calibrated refractometer.

Originally Posted by Reef Pilot

Every time I have used hypo, I was 100 % successful. I did have some live rock, and the bristle worms died, but that's all I noticed. I didn't have much for pods in my QT. With all the water changes to get the salinity down, and a mature canister filter, I didn't have any water quality issues.