Dt hypo treatment

gregzz4 · #1 03-09-2013, 06:37 AM

By the way, I can't stress enough the need to keep the Sg below 1.009
All the reading I did showed enough proof that above 1.009, and as much as 1.010, allowed MI to live

I kept my round of Hypo @ 1.008

Mike-fish · #2 03-09-2013, 07:07 AM

So then what would you recommend. I would rather stay away from copper and keep the stress to a minimum for the fish

gregzz4 · #3 03-09-2013, 07:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike-fish

So then what would you recommend. I would rather stay away from copper and keep the stress to a minimum for the fish

Who are you responding to ?

Mike-fish · #4 03-09-2013, 07:52 AM

All. I still have the 175g that I could bring online and do hypo in instead that way there would be no rock or sand to deal with but I can't dose copper in that tank as I plan to sell it soon. What method would be the best to treat them. I also have an empty 80g that I could use but again no copper allowed.

gregzz4 · #5 03-09-2013, 08:07 AM

I'm in the 'no copper' group, so I vote for the Hypo routine
I'll stress again ... 1.008 worked for me. 1.009 can border on the limits of resistance, so do as you will

Whether you remove your fish, or remove your inverts corals and LR is up to you

Whatever makes your life easier and makes the most sense

I know you're looking for an answer, but you have to make up your own mind

Put all your fish in one tank, and the rest in another

Reef Pilot · #6 03-09-2013, 01:57 PM

Every time I have used hypo, I was 100 % successful. I did have some live rock, and the bristle worms died, but that's all I noticed. I didn't have much for pods in my QT. With all the water changes to get the salinity down, and a mature canister filter, I didn't have any water quality issues.

Of course this was in 30g QT, so can't say what will happen in a large DT full of live rock.

As has been already stated here, and I will say it again very emphatically, be sure to get it down to 1.008 or 9. Use a calibrated refractometer. And keep it there for at least 6 weeks.

If you do this, please let us know how it works. I have never heard of anyone going hypo with a large DT.

Aquattro · #7 03-09-2013, 02:07 PM

If you have a spare 175 lying around, I'd drain the DT to get the fish out. I've drained my 180 a couple times now and it's not a big deal if you have something to hold the water for 20 minutes. Siphon out with a 2" dia. hose, pick out fish, pump water back into tank. House them in a temp smaller tank where you can manage treatment better.

daniella3d · #8 03-11-2013, 01:18 PM

same here, 100% sucees 3 times. I never got ick in my display tank. I always used liverock in my QT with hypo and that did not destroy the biofilter at all.

It did kill all the pods, stars and bristle worms but that did not impact on the water quality and I never had ammonia in the tank.

I think bad water quality is No1 reason why fish die in QT. I had a Magnum HOT filter with a micron filter and that also help to trop the freeswimming parasites.

I would not do it in a large display tank though. I would move some of the rock into a QT. I was using 0.009 with a calibrated refractometer.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reef Pilot

Every time I have used hypo, I was 100 % successful. I did have some live rock, and the bristle worms died, but that's all I noticed. I didn't have much for pods in my QT. With all the water changes to get the salinity down, and a mature canister filter, I didn't have any water quality issues.