#1
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Anyone had any luck getting rid of hair algae?
It ain't pretty but I need some sort of strategy for this stuff. I had a bit of a crash a couple months ago and the stuff popped up out of nowhere. I haven't had to deal with HA since I started in this hobby many many years ago (although I've dealt with every other kind of algae it seems). So far I've been picking/siphoning it out but to no avail. I added about 10 astreas and an urchin. So far about 4-5 snails have croaked (also have some cyano and some sort of odd brown cyano, I assume that is killing them but who knows). No interest in a lawnmower blenny because once the HA is gone there will be no more food source and rehoming fish here is next to impossible.
So, new bulbs coming within the week. All parameters are good: temp 78.9 SG 1.026 alk 9 dkh ca 450ppm PO4 0.03ppm NO3 5ppm So, anyone have any magic bullets or will it be a combo of time and diligence. I don't have a lot of time for the tank lately but if someone has a good success story it would be encouraging
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#2
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Weekly water changes of 10%, lite feeding only, clean all "crap" out and suck HA out also, run reactor with GFO. This will work and will take some time to see results.....about a month!!!
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#3
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The brown cyano may be dinoflagellates if the snails are dying. Do you have a calibrated digital pH meter to test pH? Test kits are useless for pH.
The mini crash suggests you're dealing with nutrients from die-off. Temporarily (or permanently) adding extra water flow to stir things up better would help a lot. Especially blowing behind rocks and down by sandbed. Maybe look into vodka/vinegar dosing or biopellets until you're under control again. Some Lawnmower Blennies will eat prepared foods (most won't), you could look for one that will. Or a smaller species Foxface Rabbitfish if you have room in the tank. Be diligent with weekly 10% waterchanges taking the time to pull out the algae (12-18" tweezers are handy for this purpose). What is Mg at? Do you dose Mg? If so, which product? In the end, elbow grease and time. Last edited by Myka; 12-31-2012 at 02:44 AM. |
#4
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Quote:
I've already got a ridiculous amount of flow (wavebox, tunze 6100, 6080 and 6045, vortech MP40, dart return full open). I have been turkey basting and siphoning where things pile up (I've angled the flow to pile detritus in easy access points). I do 20% weekly waterchanges which have sort of fallen off into bi and tri-weekly waterchanges but I'm getting back on track the past few weeks. No vodka/vinegar dosing. Even if its the holy grail I'm done with that stuff, its too "smoke and mirrors" for me. Might have a look for a foxface rabbitfish, fish are slim pickins around here, if it wasn't in Finding Nemo or an "aggressive"/FOWLR type its unlikely I'll find it. I haven't had much luck with fish that are supposed to eat certain types of algae. I think my other fish just tell the new ones to hold out for prepared foods. My fish are a bunch of lazy arses. Mg is at 1290, working on raising it up but I rarely go past 1300. The tank uses a ridiculous amount of Mg. I use Elias magnesium mix, he does the Randy Holmes-Farley recipe for me and a doser takes care of the rest. Already running GFO, can't say I'm impressed with this last batch from BRS, it doesn't seem to be doing a bloody thing, all the phosphate just goes straight to whatever algae is breeding away in the tank so PO4 levels are usually low. No pH meter, it died awhile ago and I never replaced it. Tank was always 8.1-8.3 though and frankly the tank used to run at 7.8 and looked the best it ever did. I think Ocean diver has it right though, elbow grease and time. I'll see if I can jack up my Mg levels. I've read that higher levels (1400+) can help knock it back as well. Thanks for the ideas
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
#5
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Only thing that works 100% is a sea hare or a couple of them. Had bad hair algae problem a couple years ago. Tried all the standard methods to eliminate it, but nothing worked til I introduced sea hares. They munch that stuff off right to the roots so they don't grow back. Problem is you will need to re home them once all your algae is gone, or they will starve.
Toke-toke-pass.
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Last tank was 210 reef with 90 gal sump 120 , lps. 2xKessil A350W Tuna Blues, 2xvortech mp40 for flow,aqualogic 1/4 hp chiller, 160 lbs live rock. sohal, , pair of percs,flame dotty back , royal gramma, pair of black percs, niger trigger, mandarin 55 corner bowfront freshwater, African cichlids kessil a350 30 gal 36x36 coffee table fish tank. 3 red ear sliders. 5.5 gal nano, live rock, arrow crab, baby perc, firefish. |
#6
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For me on my old 33 it was pulling rock right out & scrubbing it with a nail brush. The 10% water changes twice a week. Tried GFO, but never really worked for me, I moved to Probidio and that seemed to help. It did take me 6 months or more to beat it.
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#7
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You could try hydrogen peroxide. Read this
http://www.frozenocean.org/t1710-hai...rogen-peroxide And this http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/26870...s-to-prove-it/ |
#8
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I can probably get you a seahare on loan. Also have a reactor and pellets if you want to try that. We also have a foxface in town, IIRC.
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Brad |
#9
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I know you said no to vodka dosing but when I had HA problems, that was the only think that got rid of it. And it disappeared really fast. I think within a week of vodka+MB7 dosing my HA had mostly melted away. Now I do 0.6 ml vodka daily and the tank is sparkling clean. Don't go the biopellets route. The more I see people having issues with them, the more I'm convinced they can do more harm than good. Vodka dosing gives you better control over the process.
Between that and a seahare you'll have the issue nicked in no time. Quote:
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#10
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I've used the ole elbow grease method of taking the rock out and scrubbing the pieces with a vegetable scrub brush. Works like a charm.
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