Such a thing as too much light?

Enigma · #1 08-30-2012, 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reefwars

im def no retrofit led expert but if you have the ability to dim them then i cant see why not, as for cranking them to 100% at some time, i guess it depends on your livestock. corals that are high intensity lighting could stay in the open while you tuck lesser light corals in places the light isnt so strong?? thats what id do :P i imagine your rock scape will have alot to do with it as well:P

You just want to see me cook all of my livestock and be flunked out of the contest.

I'm thinking it should be fine. I just know that LEDs don't dim down to zero . . . I think most go to 10% or something like that . . . maybe even not that far down.

The details on the driver indicate that it will run 8-14 single LEDs, so I could use fewer LEDs than what are included in the kit (spares are good): as long as I had a minimum of eight on a driver.

lorenz0 · #2 09-01-2012, 05:29 AM

I have that kit on my bc14.... lets just say i have it dialed all the way down due to problems with bleaching. If I were to do it again I would go with less LEDS

lpsreefer · #3 09-01-2012, 05:36 AM

i run the 29 kit on my 29 and i still havent been able to crack them up to 100% yet.
i run them at about 75%
so for a 14 i would say have them way down. have teh white at say 20% and the blues at 40% but do it over the coarse of a a few week you should be fine.

Enigma · #4 09-01-2012, 06:31 AM

Thanks, guys

I'm not going to add all of the LEDs out of the kit. I think I'm going to add 16. I'm going to play around with it a bit to figure out what works best. I've ordered some additional LEDs too: so I can play around with different colour combinations. I'll have some left over, but there's nothing wrong with that.

sphelps · #5 09-01-2012, 02:28 PM

Have you considered other options?

For solderless kits I personally like this:
http://www.rapidled.com/8-x-solderle...mable-drivers/
Basically a sol blue for half the price. Plus these can be screwed on instead of glued for easier replacement, and the heatsink has built in splash guard.

Enigma · #6 09-01-2012, 02:33 PM

If I were to remove the hood, I would absolutely go with something like what you've posted, Steve. I can't remove the hood in my house, though: especially since this tank will be quite low and at a three-year-olds eye level.

Those are very interesting lights, however.

sphelps · #7 09-01-2012, 03:02 PM

well there are lots of other kits out there, if you need help soldering I can help out so don't limit yourself.

I've been using stuff from http://shop.stevesleds.com/main.sc
Personally I like it better than other alternatives, especially the drivers but they are PWM so you'll need 0-10V interface for APEX, but you can get three drivers that do 7 LEDs a piece so you could potentially have three colors with independent control.

Enigma · #8 09-01-2012, 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lorenz0

I have that kit on my bc14.... lets just say i have it dialed all the way down due to problems with bleaching. If I were to do it again I would go with less LEDS

Just had an idea. Can you just remove some of the LEDs from the circuit? Just remove the wires from them: probably the ones to the extreme left and right on the heat sink, but making sure that you still have at least eight LEDs on each string? I can't think of any reason why that wouldn't work. Then you could ramp the LEDs up a little too: if you want to.

The only real benefit I can see is if you use a controller, and would like to run a "high noon" type program. I've read that LEDs have a longer life if they're dialed down, so that could be an advantage to leaving things as they are.