Basement reinfocement

[Myka]

How old is this house? What type or finished flooring will the tank be sitting on? If the house is fairly new, say less than 20 years old, and doesn't have tile under it then I don't think you need to reinforce at all. If the tank was 4' long and that volume then maybe, but spread over 10' I don't think will be an issue.

[steve fedyk]

Double the floor joist and you shouldn't have any problems. Run them the full length from wall to wall.

[Coleus]

Originally Posted by steve fedyk

Double the floor joist and you shouldn't have any problems. Run them the full length from wall to wall.

The distance between the LVL and wall is much longer than in the sketch. Also there are all kind of water pipes and heating ducts between those joins so running more joins won't be an option.

[hillegom]

How long is the yellow, diagonal beam you will put in?
I think that is a good idea, but length matters. And then, depending on the length, the depth of the diagonal has to be deep enough to carry the weight.
Probably two 2x8s
But I am guessing at this point. There are tables for that info

[Coleus]

Thanks for everyone inputs. The house is 7 years old and it has title on the top floor.

I guess picture will illustrate better so I draw some sketches. as you can see in the sketch

The yellow blocks is what i intend to do. I can do sistering joints but i think this probably better than sistering. What do you think?



Cheers

[StirCrazy]

Originally Posted by Coleus

Cheers

what is the space under where you want to put the tank. problem is especialy with tile any deflection will crack the grout and possibly tiles. adding a tank they will realy increase the movment in the joists.

what is the distance from the foundation wall to the wall with the green posts?

if the space under the tank isn't used for anything I would be trmpted to run one or two beams (depending on the span) parallel to the foundation wall to stiffin it right up and minimize any chance of deflection. this may be overkill but better to do it that way then not good enough.

of course this would take 4, 2X10s and 4 jack posts but if the space below the tank isn't use for anything then it is still a fairly cheep option.

weather you need one set or two would depend on the span from the foundation wall to the LVL beam.

Steve

[sphelps]

Be warned that adding jack posts at random on a basement slab could do more harm than good. Typical basement support posts are placed on pre planned piles to minimize effects from ground expansion. Other areas in the basement don't offer such protection, in you put in a post and jam it tight any movement from the basement slab will transfer to the main floor. The seriousness of it depends on the soil conditions and the foundation but if you have cracks in your slab it's a good sign not to add such support posts.

Best option I think would be to add a beam from green post to green post if possible, however there must be support there already even if it's down the line further. So it's possible you're over thinking this, if your sub-floor is decent which it would be if it tile or hardwood then 135 gallons would probably be fine without concern. Perhaps relocating the sump would be a good idea to reduce the load but I really don't see a huge threat.

[gregzz4]

What is the distance from the Foundation wall to LVL ?
And what is 'LVL' ?

One thing I see that would make me uncomfortable is it looks like you are asking the plywood sheeting to take the whole load.
If this is true, and the tank is not sitting directly on the joists, I'd recommend you sister those joists far enough under the tank so the plywood doesn't deflect and fail. Plus that would take out your tiles
There is a formula for sistering, but I can't find it on the web right now.

[Coleus]

Originally Posted by Myka

Is there tile directly under the tank?

Yes. the tank will sit on tiles

Originally Posted by sphelps

Best option I think would be to add a beam from green post to green post if possible, however there must be support there already even if it's down the line further. So it's possible you're over thinking this, if your sub-floor is decent which it would be if it tile or hardwood then 135 gallons would probably be fine without concern. Perhaps relocating the sump would be a good idea to reduce the load but I really don't see a huge threat.

Please see my new sketch because my memory served me wrong. The beam actually runs from one green post to another green post and it stops at the left green post.

The space that is underneath the tank is reserved for another big fowlr tank that I plan for future, so the sump will eventually move down to basement. Therefore i don't want any post underneath the tank

Originally Posted by gregzz4

What is the distance from the Foundation wall to LVL ?

My new calculation is from wall to LVL is 17.3 feet. the tank will be 1.8 feet from the wall. And it will be 10 feet long so about 5.5 feet from the LVL

Originally Posted by gregzz4

One thing I see that would make me uncomfortable is it looks like you are asking the plywood sheeting to take the whole load.
If this is true, and the tank is not sitting directly on the joists, I'd recommend you sister those joists far enough under the tank so the plywood doesn't deflect and fail. Plus that would take out your tiles
There is a formula for sistering, but I can't find it on the web right now.

Hmm sistering joints which means i have to move current plumping and heat ducts that are currently between those joints.



Here is my latest sketch

[Myka]

Originally Posted by Coleus

Yes. the tank will sit on tiles

Ohhh...I think you're going to be in trouble without reinforcing the plywood since the tank is sitting in between the joists. Just a slight movement will pop those tiles off. Another option is to pull up the tiles that will be under the tank and install them with flexible thinset and sanded silicone grout.