New tank syndrome in an addition?

Myka · #1 09-20-2011, 01:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cal_stir

The frag tank is a new tank and the algae is only in that tank, if there is a nutrient problem then why no algae in the main tank. the frag tank should cycle it out, could be something that was on the glass, imo.

I thought I explained that in my last post...?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Myka

the new surfaces don't have a bacteria coating nor any coralline algae growth. This means there is nothing competing against the algae in that tank. If a person leaves the new tank in the dark (cover it) for a few weeks to age it without light he won't get this algae bloom. Some people call it NTS, I would prefer to call it Reefer Not Taking Required Steps For Prevention.

Cal_stir · #2 09-20-2011, 01:29 AM

OOPS, I thought you said "Explaining algae with NTS is a crock"

Myka · #3 09-20-2011, 01:40 AM

I'm pretty sure I made it rather clear that the only algae that counts for NTS is diatoms, everything else is a nutrient issue. The tank has a nutrient issue, but there is enough competition within the tank that it is not apparent. Is there an echo in here?

If the OP has any more questions about his tank, I'm sure he will ask them.

reefermadness · #4 09-20-2011, 03:51 AM

I agree with 99.99% of what you are saying. I will say that if you have lots of hair algae you probably have a nutrient problem but to get a tuff here or there is possible with-out a nutrient problem.

Also I don't think diatoms is the only algae I see in the frag tanks I have set up. Right now I'm battling diatom, cyano (many consider it an algae but I know its a bacteria) cotton candy algae and some algae that is almost like a green hair but thicker and shorter. This tank is just about a month or so old tied into my system. I had a smaller frag tank previously and went through the same thing for months.

doch · #5 09-20-2011, 07:19 AM

OK... so my nitrates are as clear as clear can be on a hagen (go ahead and knock it) test kit. My phosphates did actually get a little on the high side... about 0.15 on a Hanna. I have since started running GFO again. I started full zeo, but there were a few things that I overlooked when I set it up. I read the instructions on the bottles, and followed them, not realizing that there is more of a set up process. I've ordered a new sump, and once I get that, I'll properly set up and run the zeo that way that it was supposed to be run. I don't really understand why the instructions on the bottles don't reflect these specifics. Oh well.

I also hijacked a few snails and hermits from the display tank and threw them in the frag tank... I'm sure this will help some.

Reallistically, this bloom is likely due to my phosphates creeping up. GFO has been on for about a week now, and I'm sure that the levels are down to <.1 which is as low as I was ever able to get it on my old tank.

How do you bring your phosphates down to 0.00?

Myka · #6 09-20-2011, 01:43 PM

I'm not sure how sensitive the Hanna Checker is compared to the D-D Merck kit, but even people using Zeovit rarely get down to 0.00 ppm phosphate using the Merck kit. Getting to 0.08 ppm is doing quite well. Keep in mind that if you have any algae growing in the tank the true phosphate level will be higher as the algae are sucking it out of the water column as it grows. Sometimes, but not always you can get a higher phosphate reading if you test in the morning before the lights come on. You're doing everything right regarding phosphate.

As far as Zeovit goes, have you joined the Zeovit forums yet? Which Zeovit products are you using? I would suggest you just use the Zeolites, Bak, Food, and Start to begin with. Don't start using any of the other additives until you have removed your tank of every little bit of algae. Absolutely do not follow the directions on the bottles when it come to the other additives. I was using 1/4 what the bottles said and got the best results that way. I was not able to dose Iron or B-Balance without getting algae blooms. If you get diatoms or cyano when you start the additives you're dosing too many additives.

reefermadness · #7 09-20-2011, 05:52 PM

All I know is I bought a hanna checker and got 0.00 and tested 3 times. It was a while ago though.....and I know I must have some...but its low.

The hanna p04 checker is +/- .04ppm accuracy. Really not that good considering most people recommend PO4 to be less than .03ppm.

doch · #8 09-21-2011, 02:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Myka

I'm not sure how sensitive the Hanna Checker is compared to the D-D Merck kit, but even people using Zeovit rarely get down to 0.00 ppm phosphate using the Merck kit. Getting to 0.08 ppm is doing quite well. Keep in mind that if you have any algae growing in the tank the true phosphate level will be higher as the algae are sucking it out of the water column as it grows. Sometimes, but not always you can get a higher phosphate reading if you test in the morning before the lights come on. You're doing everything right regarding phosphate.

As far as Zeovit goes, have you joined the Zeovit forums yet? Which Zeovit products are you using? I would suggest you just use the Zeolites, Bak, Food, and Start to begin with. Don't start using any of the other additives until you have removed your tank of every little bit of algae. Absolutely do not follow the directions on the bottles when it come to the other additives. I was using 1/4 what the bottles said and got the best results that way. I was not able to dose Iron or B-Balance without getting algae blooms. If you get diatoms or cyano when you start the additives you're dosing too many additives.

Sorry... I meant to say that I'm dosing about 1/3 of the recommended dosage of all of the products I use. I've been using the supplements (k,b, phols, coral vit, eisen, kalimidofluor, coral snow, amino acids, and maybe a couple others) for quite some time with no ill effects, but since the upgrade I started with full zeo (zeolites, bak, food, and start) . I'm not on the zeo forums, but I have lurked around there for a while and done some reading. This is what has taought me that I've done the start up wrong. The replies to questions that I've read have been suggesting to dose bak and food daily, directly into the reactor pump. I didn't do this. I dosed about 1/3 of the suggested dose twice a week for the whole time. Also, I didn't run my reactor on a 3 hours on, 3 hours off schedule... full time. Like I say, I'll be switching the sump semi soon, and at that time I'll follow the proper set up protocol. For now, GFO, and time.

Thanks for all the replies guys/gals.