280g Inwall

[lastlight]

Do you see the wave at the surface? I do with mine but the back and forth action you normally see lower in the tank is different. Not really an obvious thing but if you watch particulates in the water you can tell they're moving more erratically. I think you should keep them too. Should at least see a wave on the surface though I'd imagine? In my tank I get a weird flexing of the water. Opposite corners of the tank peak at the same time.

[Delphinus]

If I double the periodicity (is that a word?) then I get the "twisty wave" going with the opposite corners. Guess I can try that and see what happens.

Right now it's really obvious as there is a fair bit of particulate in the water column from the diatom bloom. There is ZERO effect from the waveboxes if the sump return is on, regardless of whether the other Tunzes are on or not. There is a "not bad" wave effect if the rest of the powerheads are off AND the sump return is off. But even then it becomes a "marginal" if the Tunzes are allowed on. There must be too much interference.

I dunno I guess I'll give it a while yet before pulling the plug on them but I still think their days might be numbered. It is a very large area that they take up that maybe a MP40 could sit in instead.

[Skimmerking]

Tony those wave boxes don't under estimate them they do work, however the tuning is the key sometimes it takes like a 1/16th of a turn to get them where you need them.

hold up little grasshopper.

[michika]

As soon as you described the timers I knew exactly what you were talking about. We also had an issue with a couple timers we bought, not for tank purposes, that were faulty.

Now that the tank is essentially set up, how did your electrical set-up work? Did you end up having enough plugs? I'm always so worried about once a set-up is done what happens if you need to expand.

[Delphinus]

Originally Posted by Skimmer King

Tony those wave boxes don't under estimate them they do work, however the tuning is the key sometimes it takes like a 1/16th of a turn to get them where you need them.

hold up little grasshopper.

Ahhhhhso grasshoppa!

I'm pretty sure the boxes are tuned correctly is the thing. I did it with the rest of the current turned off and I dialed it back and forth around the spot where the waves were the biggest and yeah the slightest little bump on the dial would cause the waves to lessen.

The problem resides with how the water level sits against the boxes when the sump return is on. The waveboxes are as high as they possibly can go, jammed up against the Eurobracing. But the water level is right up to the top of the box so the water in fact spills into the boxes from the top. What ends up happening is that the boxes do not empty and refill like they should when the pumps do their thing. They are just powerheads turning off and on. Without the displacement there is no real wave. There is a slight level deviation at the ends, you can see the water level lap up around the bottom of the Eurobracing.

The problem isn't with the waveboxes but in the way the tank was built - the overflow is too high.

I'll take some pictures and/or video tonight and show you guys what I mean. Maybe it will make more sense when you see what's happening.

Originally Posted by michika

As soon as you described the timers I knew exactly what you were talking about. We also had an issue with a couple timers we bought, not for tank purposes, that were faulty.

Now that the tank is essentially set up, how did your electrical set-up work? Did you end up having enough plugs? I'm always so worried about once a set-up is done what happens if you need to expand.

For the most part it was enough. I have the load split for the 3 tanks now in the basement among 4 circuits and when the other two are offline I may be able to shift things around a bit to load balance even further.

I ended up adding two powerbars in the end: one for the Tunze 6080's (AC, non controllable) although now there is only one of them so I probably don't need that powerbar any more, and then another for the skimmer (two pumps to run the skimmer, it's nice to have a shutoff if need be in case I need to open it up for any reason) and then I tagged the Osmolator, the carbon reactor powerhead, and the zeovit reactor pump off that powerbar since otherwise I'd have needed 3 extension cords to make them reach to the plugs.

I wish I could do without the powerbars since there isn't a powerbar in the world that doesn't seem to say right on it "DO NOT USE FOR AQUARIUMS! YOU IDIOT!" (well maybe I'm paraphrasing a little, but you get the gyst). But I really wanted an easy way to turn the skimmer off and on without pulling plugs out of the wall.

The electrical hookups are a huge messy disaster with plugs and wires everywhere. I wish I could think of a way to tidy it up a bit.

[JonT]

Originally Posted by Delphinus

Ahhhhhso grasshoppa!

I'm pretty sure the boxes are tuned correctly is the thing. I did it with the rest of the current turned off and I dialed it back and forth around the spot where the waves were the biggest and yeah the slightest little bump on the dial would cause the waves to lessen.

The problem resides with how the water level sits against the boxes when the sump return is on. The waveboxes are as high as they possibly can go, jammed up against the Eurobracing. But the water level is right up to the top of the box so the water in fact spills into the boxes from the top. What ends up happening is that the boxes do not empty and refill like they should when the pumps do their thing. They are just powerheads turning off and on. Without the displacement there is no real wave. There is a slight level deviation at the ends, you can see the water level lap up around the bottom of the Eurobracing.

The problem isn't with the waveboxes but in the way the tank was built - the overflow is too high.

I'll take some pictures and/or video tonight and show you guys what I mean. Maybe it will make more sense when you see what's happening.





For the most part it was enough. I have the load split for the 3 tanks now in the basement among 4 circuits and when the other two are offline I may be able to shift things around a bit to load balance even further.

I ended up adding two powerbars in the end: one for the Tunze 6080's (AC, non controllable) although now there is only one of them so I probably don't need that powerbar any more, and then another for the skimmer (two pumps to run the skimmer, it's nice to have a shutoff if need be in case I need to open it up for any reason) and then I tagged the Osmolator, the carbon reactor powerhead, and the zeovit reactor pump off that powerbar since otherwise I'd have needed 3 extension cords to make them reach to the plugs.

I wish I could do without the powerbars since there isn't a powerbar in the world that doesn't seem to say right on it "DO NOT USE FOR AQUARIUMS! YOU IDIOT!" (well maybe I'm paraphrasing a little, but you get the gyst). But I really wanted an easy way to turn the skimmer off and on without pulling plugs out of the wall.

The electrical hookups are a huge messy disaster with plugs and wires everywhere. I wish I could think of a way to tidy it up a bit.

Instead of a power bar, grab a DJ box. The ones they use for their lights etc. They normally have about 5 switches/plugs. Each plug has its own switch.

[Lance]

Originally Posted by JonT

Instead of a power bar, grab a DJ box. The ones they use for their lights etc. They normally have about 5 switches/plugs. Each plug has its own switch.

I've tried to find one of those but the ones I saw had a price tag that only a Rock Star could afford. Where do you get them?