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#1
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![]() Oh this is sounds like it'll be an awesome build!
Vortech will give you greater variability in flow over the closed loop so it probably would be best to go with that (and power wise as you said). 36 front to back IS awesome! I love 30" front to back on my largest tank right now... 36 would be just sweet!
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No more tanks ![]() Cheers, Chris |
#2
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![]() Here's one of my first DIY projects as I love to build stuff. A water mixing station has been on my list of things to do regardless of an upgrade. I will change out the cans later with something a little more heavy duty, but to this point they have served me well. I have some heavy duty ones I use for our horses that I might have to steal later. I'll show a completed pic when its done.
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Mike 150g reef, 55g sump, T5's, Vertech 200A, Profilux III - German made is highly over rated, should just say Gerpan made. Reefkeeper - individual obsessed with placing disturbing amounts of electricity and seawater in close proximity for the purpose of maintaining live coral reef organisms. |
#3
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![]() Great plans - and you will love that size tank.
Are those garbage cans? May be prudent to avoid using those as they are not known to be stable. A buddy of mine did a water change station using a glass aquarium, plumbed in-line to the main system. A great idea, collects sediment when not in use, and holds a fixed amount of water so you can buy a balance and weigh the amount of salt required! No more guessing how much to add. Nice. I would use this approach should the time come. Quote:
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#4
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![]() Hi
I run a beananimal overflow - Dead silent. Completely stable. Totally reliable. - I would never use any other style overflow. I used to run two closed loops on my tank. I've taken them both out in favor of Tunze powerheads. I agree with you on the engery considerations, but I also feel that closed loops have many other drawbacks. Obviously, they are much easier to hide when compared to powerheads, but that seems to be the only advantage. I will never run another closed loop. I am also building a 300G tank (72" x 36" x 27"). Basically the same with a couple of extra inches for hieght. Hope we can share some ideas. |
#5
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![]() what the.. why have I not subscribed to this thread yet..
Looking forward for more large reef porn ![]() |
#6
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![]() People actually subscribe to threads here? What I love about CanReef is you can just hit the new posts button every visit unlike other sites. Nothing can get burried more than a page between visits and you see everything. Try that on RC and you have like 10,000 new posts lol.
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#7
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![]() Quote:
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#8
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![]() Yes these are just temperary. I've been using one for awhile now to store my RO water and mixing in. I have them secured to the wall as I know they can slowly colapse side ways near the bottom with the weight of the water. But I've invested money in the hardware department of the tank build and I haven't worked since last year when I busted my arm pretty good. So I'll address this a little later, just don't want to be hauling buckets around.
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Mike 150g reef, 55g sump, T5's, Vertech 200A, Profilux III - German made is highly over rated, should just say Gerpan made. Reefkeeper - individual obsessed with placing disturbing amounts of electricity and seawater in close proximity for the purpose of maintaining live coral reef organisms. |
#9
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![]() So here's the RO/RI unit that I will be using. Never ran a RO unit up till this point. Never seemed to have any real issues over the years, but figured it is time. Prevent any guessing over future water issues that may occur.
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Mike 150g reef, 55g sump, T5's, Vertech 200A, Profilux III - German made is highly over rated, should just say Gerpan made. Reefkeeper - individual obsessed with placing disturbing amounts of electricity and seawater in close proximity for the purpose of maintaining live coral reef organisms. Last edited by andestang; 05-27-2010 at 08:43 PM. Reason: typo |