Filter Sock Q

Gizmo · #1 10-16-2009, 04:01 PM

I've never used filter socks before, but I have a fair bit of matter floating around I would like to catch. Just the way my sump is laid out, does anyone see a major issue with putting the socks on the return pump inlets?

The Codfather · #2 10-16-2009, 04:09 PM

Depends on what size(micron) the sock is, if that sock gets plugged, you will starve that pump, not a good thing to do.

Gizmo · #3 10-16-2009, 04:14 PM

100micron socks. I was planning on switching them out every 3-5 days, maybe just adding them as needed for a day on the weekend to catch all floating debris. I've been using a diatom filter once to get all the detrius etc in the water column, by stirring it off the rocks, seems to work fine, but there is still crud floating around I would like to remove.

intarsiabox · #4 10-17-2009, 03:02 AM

Never a good idea to block the intake of any pump. 100 micron socks can clog up fast if the water is dirty which will cause cavitation and destroy your impellor. How is your water getting to your pump? Is there something there that you can put a filter sock on?

danny zubot · #5 10-17-2009, 03:50 AM

At 100 microns you'll need to wash the sock every day to prevent clogs.

mark · #6 10-17-2009, 01:46 PM

Until recently had the pump return area in my sump as a frag section, Because with the light and no CUC was getting some algae so rotated Eheim pads over the inlet. Just let the suction hold in place, big and coarse so never had a blockage.

Still using the 100µ on the drains.

mr.wilson · #7 10-17-2009, 02:45 PM

Tanks with good flow get a lot more free-floating detritus and protein skimmers aren't enough to address the matter. Mechanical filtration is a must in my opinion. It's the most effective and cheapest method of exporting detritus that would otherwise breakdown into nutrients like phosphate and nitrogen.

If you were to use filter socks you need to allow a method of bypass because they clog daily in most cases. I don't like to use them, but if I do I use the fuzzy felt/polyester ones rather than the fine polyester mesh ones. The fuzzy ones take a few days to clog once they develop biofilms. The mesh ones tend to physically grind the trapped detritus until it becomes dissolved organic matter rather than particulate.

I find polyester fiberfill to be wasteful, so open pore sponges are my first choice. They only need weekly cleaning, but it helps if you squeeze them out more often. You could add a tray to your sump, or try to implement them in the overflow closer to the source. Sponges at the end of your drain line get pressurized water so splashing, salt creep, bubble production, and bypass can occur. Sponges in the overflow get volume, but less pressure. They can help keep critters out of the overflow, keep drain noise down, offer easy access for rinsing or replacement, and remove detritus closer to the source. It is also likely that they can offer viable sites for dentrifying bacteria.

For aquariums over 150 gallons I use pleated cartridge mechanical filters like OceanClear and Pentair. These can be used with a built-in UV sterilizer or chemical media (polyfilters, carbon, iron-based phosphate remover and other ion exchange resins). The down side is more work to clean the cartridges than a quick sponge exchange or rinse, but they can remove 25 micron particles and even down to 1 micron if you use diatom powder. This offers removal of ich parasites as well as free floating algae spores and phytoplankton.