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#1
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![]() Ooh man, where to begin.
First of all, do the notched overflow if you can. I would have, if I would have thought of it at the time. (BTW, for those of you who don't know, that pic if of my tank) When I picked up my tank from Bow valley after they drilled it, I saw a notched overflow on another tank they were working on, and loved it. But, too late for me I guess. Secondly, if you are thinking of making the external overflow out of acrylic, think again. Acrylic warps under the heat of any lighting really. What you see in the pic is what I had, and it failed. It actually started to peal right off of the tank. I should have made it out of glass. The design is sound, but my execution of the design back fired totally. The adjustable standpipe worked well, but it was noisey. Adding a Herbie to the standpipe would be a great idea. I never thought of that at the time either, probably because the tank is in the basement and I don't really care about the noise. I have since added a check valve to the return, but only because my sump was about 1 gallon shy of being able to handle the water drain off.
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THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 |
#2
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![]() I don't know how to do the "notched" overflow on a glass tank. My tank is rimless, so that's not a worry, but I don't think I could cut/drill those notches without them breaking off...that would REALLY suck.
I'm going to be making glass overflows, but thanks for the heads up. ![]() |
#3
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![]() Ok, so here's the best I can do with the software on my puter.
The "PUMP" is a Poseidon PS3 which should give me about 700 gph at the 4'6" head I have. Sump is a standard 25g tank, which barely fits in the stand. The return is 3/4", and there is a check valve just above the pump. The overflow is a 1 1/2" bulkhead to an external box with 1 1/2" Herbie style drains w/ gate valve. They drain into the same chamber the skimmer is in through a CPR 4" sump inlet assembly w/ filter sock. The refugium on the right is fed by a small pump (MaxiJet 1200 maybe?). ![]() Last edited by Myka; 04-28-2008 at 04:37 AM. |
#4
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![]() I know you have even a better handle on this stuff than me Myka, but remember to account for a back siphon if power goes out through your return pump. When I made my sump, I figured out how many gallons of water were represented by each inch in my display and made sure there was that much room (gallons) plus more in my sump/fuge.
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Mark... ![]() 290g Peninsula Display, 425g total volume. Setup Jan 2013. |
#5
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![]() You would have to re-prime your return pump each time on start up the way you have it placed above the sump (I'm assuming from your drawing).
A simpler way to eliminate having to feed your fuge with a separate pump is simply to split your overflow drain going into the sump after the gate valve OR have the emergency drain go into the fuge. Depending on your flow rate, the emergency drain can take a fair amount of water (as adjusated by the gate valve) before it starts making any noticeable noise. |
#6
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![]() Mark: Ya, I'm keeping that in my mind, but I'm going to have to get it in front of me before I can actually figure it out. I'm worried that my whole sump will only be able to be 1/2 full. If that's the case, I'll make my own sump from scratch making it extra tall so that it can still hold a decent amount of water.
![]() fkshiu: I thought of that about the pump...I have since decided to move it to sit in front of the sump. I will drill the sump, and feed the pump with a bulkhead. I did think about tee-ing the overflow or return water for the fuge, but I don't want to screw around with a string of ball/gate valves. I think it just may be easier to use a MJ1200 which I have several of anyway. I think I should probably add a ball/gate valve on the return line before the check valve...? I think a ball valve should do on that side. I can't imagine needing to dial down the pump though, but I won't know until it's up and running. Last edited by Myka; 04-28-2008 at 02:20 PM. |
#7
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![]() Hey Myka,
I don't see a skimmer on your WTB list anymore...did you get one?
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Mark... ![]() 290g Peninsula Display, 425g total volume. Setup Jan 2013. |
#8
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![]() Not yet. Haven't found what I'm looking for. Since I'm not in a hurry, I'll stick it out until I find a used one.
![]() Updated drawing..."PUMP" is sitting in front of the sump, with a bulkhead connecting it. I added a union below the ball valve on the overflow too. ![]() Last edited by Myka; 04-29-2008 at 02:59 AM. |