Plumbing...suggestions? Added a drawing...

[Parker]

but I'm considering putting my return in the middle of the back down low say 3" off the bottom

The only problem I see is, If the power goes down you’re going to siphon all the way down to the level of your return. A closed loop return down low would be fine, but not a sump return even with a check valve, they have a tendency to fail, it doesn't take much to keep them from closing all the way. This is assuming that your return is through the tank not over the top.

[Myka]

Ah...good call.

[mark]

Rather than a bulkhead to feed the external overflow do a single large notch the width of the box or a series of smaller one (see picture in this thread).

And make a Herbie, drilling the external box for two holes. In your picture the air being pulled into the drain must be making an awful sucking sound.

[Myka]

Originally Posted by mark

Rather than a bulkhead to feed the external overflow do a single large notch the width of the box or a series of smaller one (see picture in this thread).

I don't know how to do that to glass, and I don't want to risk breaking the pane. what's wrong with using a bulkhead?

Originally Posted by mark

And make a Herbie, drilling the external box for two holes. In your picture the air being pulled into the drain must be making an awful sucking sound.

Yes, now that I think of it, I've seen a couple plumbed kinda like that, and they were very noisey. I've heard lots about Herbies, and I have no clue what they are. I'm going to go researching.

[fkshiu]

Originally Posted by Myka

Yes, now that I think of it, I've seen a couple plumbed kinda like that, and they were very noisey. I've heard lots about Herbies, and I have no clue what they are. I'm going to go researching.

Take any overflow box - internal or external, doesn't matter - and drill two holes in the bottom (holes will be in the bottom of the tank for an internal box). Put an ordinary standpipe in one hole. Leave the other hole as is. Put a gate valve under the no standpipe hole and adjust it so the water level in the overflow box is just seeping down the standpipe. Voila . . . dead silent overflow a.k.a. a Herbie.

[Myka]

Ya, I went and found Herbie's original post on Reef Central. Cool idea. I think I'm going to go with that. I think I may just do a u-tube type return as well instead of drilling a return hole, but what are the pros/cons?

I don't know how to make overflow "teeth" in my glass panes though...I imagine the teeth would just break off?

[danny zubot]

Ooh man, where to begin.

First of all, do the notched overflow if you can. I would have, if I would have thought of it at the time. (BTW, for those of you who don't know, that pic if of my tank) When I picked up my tank from Bow valley after they drilled it, I saw a notched overflow on another tank they were working on, and loved it. But, too late for me I guess.

Secondly, if you are thinking of making the external overflow out of acrylic, think again. Acrylic warps under the heat of any lighting really. What you see in the pic is what I had, and it failed. It actually started to peal right off of the tank. I should have made it out of glass. The design is sound, but my execution of the design back fired totally. The adjustable standpipe worked well, but it was noisey. Adding a Herbie to the standpipe would be a great idea. I never thought of that at the time either, probably because the tank is in the basement and I don't really care about the noise.

I have since added a check valve to the return, but only because my sump was about 1 gallon shy of being able to handle the water drain off.

[Myka]

I don't know how to do the "notched" overflow on a glass tank. My tank is rimless, so that's not a worry, but I don't think I could cut/drill those notches without them breaking off...that would REALLY suck.

I'm going to be making glass overflows, but thanks for the heads up.