|
|
|
|
|
#1
10-08-2007, 03:23 AM
|
|||||
|
|||||
Hmm, coast-coast might work, but my return is a seaswirl in the centre of the tank, I'd have to accomodate for that. And I don't want to haul it around getting new holes drilled, so I have to work with what I've got. It sort of has a durso style off the back now, I guess just a box inside would do it. I would like to stay away from that though, as it's potentially a viewing side. I'll look at the C2C...thx
__________________
Brad 
|
|
#2
10-08-2007, 04:07 AM
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
You could drill it yourself, there are some pretty inexpensive drill bits now. I got my 2.5" bit off ebay from a seller in Hong Kong (just search on "glass drill bit"), cost me about $25 landed (auction price and shipping included).
mops.ca also sells them: http://www.mops.ca/cgi-bin/SoftCart....20e+1191819023 Just a thought, anyhow. You'd need some cutting oil and a little cutting-oil-hold-in-place thingy (lubricant dam? I don't know what it's called) too of course.
__________________
-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee!
|
|
#3
10-08-2007, 05:33 AM
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
Tony, I don't think I'm up to drilling glass myself, I've seen pros crack it. The coast2coast though is looking good in my imagination, and if I use black acrylic, I don't have to paint the back of the tank. I can design a bracket to hold my seaswirl and all's good!
__________________
Brad
|
|
#4
10-08-2007, 06:59 AM
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
welcome back brad. I'll be expecting you in the spring with clippers and your fancy cooler..... actually forget the clippers, i've got them
__________________
____________ If people don't die, it wouldn't make living important. And why do we fall? So we can learn to pick ourselves up.
|
|
#5
10-08-2007, 02:22 PM
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
a coast to coast (as built by the guy in Seattle who started them) is two corner overflows conected by a bridge accross the back of the tank. with one overflow it will work like crap and will be a waist of plastic. I sugest a top to bottom black or smoked acrylic corner overflow as small as we can make it. maybe wider so it doesen't have to stick out as far into the tank. Nothing inside, but rather and external durso or something like that. smooth top routed so it is rounded and a eggcrate top to prevent the fishies from getting in.
Steve
__________________
 *everything said above is just my opinion, and may or may not reflect the views of this BBS, its Operators, and its Members. If cornered on any “opinion” I post I will totally deny having ever said this in a Court of Law…Unless I am the right one*Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive.
|
|
#6
10-08-2007, 04:16 PM
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
Glad to see you starting up again Brad
__________________
Mike 150g reef, 55g sump, T5's, Vertech 200A, Profilux III - German made is highly over rated, should just say Gerpan made. Reefkeeper - individual obsessed with placing disturbing amounts of electricity and seawater in close proximity for the purpose of maintaining live coral reef organisms.
|
|
#7
10-08-2007, 05:01 PM
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
Well, it's only one option. The longer linear length of overflow means more surface extraction, and since proteins tend to float, I think it's still worthwhile even if there's only one drain pipe. But there are plenty-o-options..
__________________
-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee!
|
Hybrid Mode
