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  #11  
Old 06-15-2006, 03:25 AM
mooch28 mooch28 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atcguy
Nothing more to say. You want accurate test results, invest the few extra bucks. Salifert all the way. What kind of water are you using??
All R/O water with DI unit.
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  #12  
Old 06-15-2006, 03:29 AM
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Have you checked the tds of the ro water?
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  #13  
Old 06-15-2006, 03:30 AM
mooch28 mooch28 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanG
Have you checked the tds of the ro water?
Yep, it's fine. Around 6-7. Also, R/O unit is only 4 months old.
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  #14  
Old 06-15-2006, 03:33 AM
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You could try putting the power heads at in the front corners pointing back at the rock to get more direct flow. That may loosen up some of the detrious. Also in my experience coraline grows better under flourecent lighting and since you do not have any it my take a while to get going.
I also had problems with algae and at times I wanted to quit, but the problem is gone now and I love my tank and am glad I stuck it out.
As far as snails go I could never seem to keep them alive either and now I just don't bother.
Good luck with the tank.
By the way I like the aqua scaping you have done. It looks really good.
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  #15  
Old 06-15-2006, 03:45 AM
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Well I'm stumped too - and by the way I really like the way you have your tank aquascaped as well. What salt are you using? Sometimes salt mix can effect different life forms. Do you mix it for at least 24hrs before doing a water change.
I know that I have had things go whacky in my tanks that I have a hard time figuring out and when that happens I just do lots and lots of water changes - like 2 times a week and up to 50% change. My theory is that something is wrong with the chemistry in there and the only surefire way is to dilute-dilute-dilute. It brings your chemistry into balance and gets rid of bad guys in there. Yes it is a lot of work - I have lots of tanks - but has always gotten things back on track for me. Good luck.
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  #16  
Old 06-15-2006, 03:48 AM
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Have all your snails/corals come from the same store?

Mike
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  #17  
Old 06-15-2006, 04:36 AM
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just a thaught what are you adding / using maybe chemicals you are using are mixing causing an ill effect. ? Is your rock very pouris ?? Stick with it. I wish i had half the equipment you have, i unfortanitly cheaped out with i first got into the hobby but i never had alge or death problems but with corals that were a little more finicky. Now i'm in process of upgrading to new system.
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  #18  
Old 06-15-2006, 11:37 AM
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Is the tank covered with a glass lid?

The reason I ask is it could be an O2 problem. During the day things are fine do to photosynthesis but at nigh O2 levels could drop. This could be a problem or it could be the resulting drop in PH.

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  #19  
Old 06-15-2006, 03:27 PM
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I've read this thread from the beginning and can see no reason why corals and snails die on you.

However, I do have a few suggestions that might be of use generally speaking. If this was my 110g, I would:

- reaquascape to get rid of the "wall of rock". This would provide better flow throughout the whole tank.

- make sure you get good water surface movement to maximize air exchange between the tank and the air in the tankroom.

- make sure the room your tank is in gets fresh air. This will eliminate the possibility of high CO2 levels in your tank room and thus in your tank. High CO2 levels will often show up as low pH in the tank. You can test for CO2 levels in your tank room by taking a sample of tank water and aerate for 20 minutes with an air pump. Record pH before aeration and after. Then take another sample of tank water and aerate it outside for 20 minutes, recording before and after aeration pH. If there is a big difference between inside aeration pH and outside aeration pH, you don't have enough fresh air getting into your tankroom.

- add non-invasive macroalgae in either the sump or display tank to utilize excess nitrate and phosphate. The reason there is no nitrate/phosphate in your system is that the hair algae is using it up. If you had an excess of phosphate in your system, it would show up as cyanobacteria.

- reduce calcium to 400 ppm. Alk is fine at 9/10 dKH. Temp looks good, too. Also test for and adjust Mg to about 1325 ppm, though even if it is a bit low or high, it should not be the culprit in dead snails or corals.


BTW, I have had a number of low or high levels of the above mentioned Ca, Mg, alk, pH and have not had a problem with dying livestock. However, when chemistry and pH/CO2 levels finely tuned, I get better coral growth, better polyp extension and better coralline growth.

Do the pH/CO2 levels test and let us know what you discover on that front. It could be one of the bigger factors with your dead snails and corals.
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  #20  
Old 06-15-2006, 05:46 PM
mooch28 mooch28 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruth
Well I'm stumped too - and by the way I really like the way you have your tank aquascaped as well. What salt are you using? Sometimes salt mix can effect different life forms. Do you mix it for at least 24hrs before doing a water change.
I know that I have had things go whacky in my tanks that I have a hard time figuring out and when that happens I just do lots and lots of water changes - like 2 times a week and up to 50% change. My theory is that something is wrong with the chemistry in there and the only surefire way is to dilute-dilute-dilute. It brings your chemistry into balance and gets rid of bad guys in there. Yes it is a lot of work - I have lots of tanks - but has always gotten things back on track for me. Good luck.
I use instant ocean salt, and let the salt mix for 3-4 days before adding. I adjust temps, alkalinty, Calcium, and salinty days before new mix is added to main tank. Also, i every parameter before water goes into to tank right before water change.

As for water changes, been doing that now for a few weeks. Atleast %15 per week.
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