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#1
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![]() Quote:
Of course every new tank experiences some form of bloom.
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THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 |
#2
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![]() One thing that can lead to algae (in addition to what was mentioned above) is low alkalinity.
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#3
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![]() I am doing a 25 gallon water change tomorrow morning with R/O water (just finished mixing the water) As for circulation I have a pump in the sump moving about 700 gph after elevation loss is factored in and I also have a fairly large power head in the tank as well. The purple slime algae does seem to collect in the areas with the least water movement though. Should I be able to get a PO4 sponge at most aquarium stores?
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#4
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![]() Reasonably accurate test kits are either Salifert or Hach. RO/DI water is the way to go. An inexpensive RO/DI unit is AquaSafe which can be found on ebay. It's made in North Vancouver. You should test for phosphates. Also the amount and type of food you feed to your fish can put phosphates into the system. Using a phosban reactor and rowaphos works good for the phosphates. Nitrates are probably better reduced by frequent water changes.
Doug |
#5
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![]() Thanks for the tip on the Aqua Safe R/O units. I managed to find them on Ebay and they are much cheaper than I expected. I plan on ordering one soon.
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