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#11
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![]() I feel your pain Snappy.
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#12
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![]() Anything I can help with Greg?
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#13
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![]() Thanks for your input and ideas everyone. I think the RODI unit is in the cards p.d.q. and I'll see if that helps. I am still leaning towards the upgrade but am not sure what to do with my stuff while the new system is under construction. Seems crazy to sell it off only to have to go buy new stuff when it's done, especially considering I can fill the new tank with what I have. I need to figure out how to store my corals while I setup and aquascape the new tank. Oh yeah then there is the cycling time to consider.
![]() Any ideas?
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![]() Greg |
#14
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![]() First off, that sucks you're having problems. Tony covered most of what I wanted to say (plus the stupid server crashed last night while I was typing out my epic reply). While chatting on msn he and I have talked each other out of quitting several times over the last year probably.
![]() ![]() Secondly, moving tanks is a pain in the arse. Thats nothing new. However, I used all the same rock etc (minus the sandbed though) when switching my tank over and I had zero cycle. As long as your rock is cured, I would imagine you wouldn't see much of a cycle if any at all. Even when I've done tank switches starting with new sand (same rock) I haven't seen a cycle. Is the new system is going in the same place as the old?? Perhaps you can get some buddies to coral sit for you for awhile while you get everything in order? If you're putting the new tank in a new location all I have to say is "reef meeting!" Lure people with pizza and beer! Us reef nerds are always game for stuff like that (heck, even minus the pizza and beer for me!). In the meantime, I think the RODI will really help your system and likely you will wonder why you didn't do it before (at least in my case, your tank looks pretty damned good for tapwater). Can you possibly change the flow in the tank or increase it? That might help. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2006/6/aafeature2
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
#15
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![]() Man I don't know how you've done it for so long without an RO/DI unit. The corals live and breath through their surrounding, I bet you it's the main cause of all your problems. With the spring run-offs lately, the water is full of inpurities and that can reek major havoc. Get on one of those units right away.
Downsizing won't make you happy, downsizing the content may. The way your tank looks right now, with that many corals, you are bound to reach a point where you will have to get rid of some. There just won't be enought room for all to grow. |
#16
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![]() I also wrote a post yesterday and the server went down by the time I hit submit.
Anyhow, over the past 4-5 years, I bought dozens and dozens of Acros and several Bird's Nests. I lost every piece of Acro and Bird's Nest. I could never keep them for a length of time. Bird's Nest usually last 1-2 months max. I used RO water from day 1. Everything changed when I added a UV sterilizer and upgraded my skimmer. I believe the UV Sterilizer has killed off whatever killed my SPS (bacteria, algae, protozoa, etc) and the additional oxygen (measured w/ my DO meter) from the skimmer kept them strong. I've restocked with dozens of Acro colonies and frags. The color and growth that I get now, I have never experienced in the past. I have so many Acros now that I have to eventually sell some off. Do you have a UV sterilizer? If not, it could be worth a try rather than giving up. The UV hasn't helped too much with my Ick problem though. I introduced a fish w/ ick and other fish also caught it. The ick has been in my tank now for several weeks. However, my fish are all fine. The ick will go away on its own though (w/o casualties) as it always has in the past before I installed the UV sterilzer. I'm waiting for the ick to go away before I start selling my SPS in case people get my tank water into their tanks. I now use only tap water for my Top-off (Vancouver's tap water only has a TDS value of about 5-8ppm). WRT browning, I do getting browning if too much chlorinated water gets into the tank such as when I am topping off 5 gallons out of my 45G system with fresh chlorinated tap water. The Acros don't die nor have tissue loss though. They color back up in a couple of weeks. There's no browning when the tap water has been sitting in the reservoir for a long time. So that's why I think it was the chlorine that browned my Acros. Last edited by Samw; 06-29-2006 at 06:01 PM. |
#17
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![]() Samw--Yes I have a UV sterilizer. Had it disconnected for several months because the filter/pump it was hooked into was leaking, but it has been back up for a couple of weeks now.
Will - Yeah the spring run off is a big problem. I talked to Danny at Wai's a while back, who also uses tap water, and he said he looses countless acro's every spring. Christy - the tank needs to be moved before construction can start and the new tank will be built in elsewhere. I will start researching an RODI unit right away. Anyone have any suggestions on those?
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![]() Greg Last edited by Snappy; 06-29-2006 at 06:11 PM. |
#18
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![]() I have no complaints with my AquaFX model, I have contacted the manufacturer in the US a few times, and service is excellent.
There are cheaper models though. I went with 100gpd unit, overkill, but means I can fill my water change reservoire quicily when required. |
#19
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![]() Quote:
In my tank, it took about a couple of weeks after I installed the UV before the Acros stopped STN'ing. You lost your Acros during a period of time when your UV was not installed or was just set up. So I think and I hope the UV will help you. Of course, getting RO is a good idea too. Though, RO didn't help for me during the first 5 years that I used it. Last edited by Samw; 06-29-2006 at 07:22 PM. |
#20
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![]() Hey Greg, sorry to hear about your bad luck, there seams to be a lot going around lately. Let me know if there is anything I can help with. When you get your RO/Di unit, plan on a very large water change ASAP.
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THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 |