Recommend a RO/DI system to me

Gripenfelter · #1 09-09-2011, 07:53 PM

Not looking to spend a ton of money. Just a good bang for your buck.

lastlight · #2 09-09-2011, 08:16 PM

I run basically the same thing as this. Mine is actually an old coralife unit Snappy gave me.

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/...my-system.html

I have not ever felt a need for more stages than this. I flush my membrane religiously each time and only allow water to enter the resin when it's 3 TDS or less. Filters and resin last me a long time.

phi delt reefer · #3 09-09-2011, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lastlight

I run basically the same thing as this. Mine is actually an old coralife unit Snappy gave me.

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/...my-system.html

I have not ever felt a need for more stages than this. I flush my membrane religiously each time and only allow water to enter the resin when it's 3 TDS or less. Filters and resin last me a long time.

lastlight has the right idea here... make sure you have a tds meter to measure the water after the membrane AND after the DI resin stage. If the unit hasn't been running for a bit then flush till the TDS is in the single digits after the membrane... ususally takes about 1-2 minutes. You'll save HUNDREDS of dollars on filters and resin (over the life of your unit) if you take this precaution.

Gripenfelter · #4 09-09-2011, 09:06 PM

Thanks for the info guys.

So no need for a 5 stage with a deionization canister?

lastlight · #5 09-09-2011, 09:10 PM

My 4th is the di resin =)

Mine is RO membrane -> carbon -> 5 micron -> DI resin

I think... I get the first two mixed up...

Some people will have a 1 micron after the 5 etc. Some have 2 resin canisters. I've done great with this basic one tho.

Myka · #6 09-09-2011, 10:29 PM

Oh my Brett, I hope they aren't in that order!

It all starts out with a TDS meter, go buy one ($15-30+) and test your tap water after allowing it to run on cold for a few minutes. You want fresh water, not stuff that's be sitting in the pipes for a day. If your TDS is around 300 ppm or less you can easily go with a 4 stage. If you have a lot of solids in the water that settle out when you pour a glass/bucket of water you may want to use two sediment filters.

Basic system is 5 micron sediment filter, 1 or 5 micron carbon filter, RO membrane, DI resin.

I would suggest you use either a 50, 75, or 150 gpd system and not a 100 gpd as the RO membranes are not as efficient and you will burn through DI resin. Pick an RO membrane that is 98% rejection (that's efficiency). That means if your TDS is at 200 ppm it will be at 4 ppm when it comes out of the RO, and the DI will take it down the last 4 ppm. DI will take out up to 20 ppm, but you will burn through it real fast.

Bulk Reef Supply makes great RO systems, including the build your own ones.

lastlight · #7 09-10-2011, 03:47 AM

Yeah hadthe order wrong. However I have heard the 75 is more efficient than the 100. Either way I use the Dow filmtec. It's 98%.

Gripenfelter · #8 09-10-2011, 05:15 AM

One of my friends told me to look for one with a booster pump so it has a 1:1 ratio?

mike31154 · #9 09-10-2011, 06:25 AM

Myka is bang on with getting a handheld TDS meter first to determine your source water TDS. Number two on the list before you commit to buy, especially something with a booster pump, is to get a pressure guage & check your water pressure. You'll want at least 60 psi to have the system work efficiently. If you're on city water, which I assume you are in Winterpeg, check your house for a PRV (Pressure Regulating Valve). This should be located not too far downstream from your main water shut off valve and is designed to protect your home's plumbing from supplier pressure variations/spikes. Most PRVs are adjustable, I have one & tweaked it up to provide just over 80 psi, take my chances with the home plumbing, so far so good. Anyhow, this may save you the extra cost & complexity associated with buying a booster pump.

Myka · #10 09-10-2011, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lastlight

However I have heard the 75 is more efficient than the 100. Either way I use the Dow filmtec. It's 98%.

Oh shoot Brett, I made a booboo, it's the 100 gpd that aren't 98%, you're right. Thanks for pointing it out.

In the end, it doesn't matter what the gpd rating is as long as it is a 98% rejection.