Leather Cabbage with Flat worms

Sencha · #1 03-29-2011, 06:53 PM

This Sunday I bought a brain coral from one LFS and a cabbage leather from different LFS. While I had them acclimatizing in separate make shift “In-Tank Refugiums” , I noticed the cabbage leather had flat worms. I have treated the cabbage leather with coral x, but realize I will not be able to put in dp tank for a minimum of six weeks. Will I be able to keep the coral in this for that long or do I need to set up an emergency quarantine tank? I have a sponge soaking in the sump area to get ready for quarantine tank.

abcha0s · #2 03-29-2011, 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sencha

This Sunday I bought a brain coral from one LFS and a cabbage leather from different LFS. While I had them acclimatizing in separate make shift “In-Tank Refugiums” , I noticed the cabbage leather had flat worms. I have treated the cabbage leather with coral x, but realize I will not be able to put in dp tank for a minimum of six weeks. Will I be able to keep the coral in this for that long or do I need to set up an emergency quarantine tank? I have a sponge soaking in the sump area to get ready for quarantine tank.

I'm pretty sure flat worms could escape your refugium and end up in your display:

Personally, I wouldn't risk it. I would either cut your losses or get it into a proper (issolated) qt tank.

- Brad

ScubaSteve · #3 03-29-2011, 07:08 PM

If you can keep it isolated do dip in FlatWorm exit, give it a rinse dip and then off into QT for a day or two for observation. If it looks ok, into the display it goes. FWE is really effective.

Sencha · #4 03-29-2011, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by abcha0s

I'm pretty sure flat worms could escape your refugium and end up in your display:

Personally, I wouldn't risk it. I would either cut your losses or get it into a proper (issolated) qt tank.

- Brad

would they go above the water line?

Sencha · #5 03-29-2011, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScubaSteve

If you can keep it isolated do dip in FlatWorm exit, give it a rinse dip and then off into QT for a day or two for observation. If it looks ok, into the display it goes. FWE is really effective.

Thank you,

I did the dips already, but don't I have to be concerned about eggs?

abcha0s · #6 03-29-2011, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sencha

would they go above the water line?

No. I don't think they would go above the water line. Maybe I am confused? From the pictures it looks like there are holes in the sides. I assumed these were to allow water to flow through the refugium. Maybe it's just a shadow?

If there is no water circulation through the refugium from the main tank, then I would be worried about water quality.

Nebthet · #7 03-29-2011, 10:42 PM

Get a bucket, heater and an airstone or mini pump for water flow. Do a seperate dip of flatworm exit. You may need to double the dose for it to work properly (I had to do that with the flatworms I had.. it took out the big ones ok, but the smaller aceol ones it wouldn't touch without a double dose and they were every where!!).

Fill the bucket with 2-3gallons of water, to allow some water space to help take care of any toxins the flatworms will release when they start dieing.

Keep the coral in the quaranteen bucket over night if possible. Add carbon if needed to the bucket after 6 hours or if the leather is showing adverse signs to the treatment.

Sencha · #8 03-30-2011, 01:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by abcha0s

No. I don't think they would go above the water line. Maybe I am confused? From the pictures it looks like there are holes in the sides. I assumed these were to allow water to flow through the refugium. Maybe it's just a shadow?

If there is no water circulation through the refugium from the main tank, then I would be worried about water quality.

abcha0s thank you, there are no holes in the refugium, just a small pump and I dump and add new water from the tank a couple times a day for now.

Sencha · #9 03-30-2011, 01:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nebthet

Get a bucket, heater and an airstone or mini pump for water flow. Do a seperate dip of flatworm exit. You may need to double the dose for it to work properly (I had to do that with the flatworms I had.. it took out the big ones ok, but the smaller aceol ones it wouldn't touch without a double dose and they were every where!!).

Fill the bucket with 2-3gallons of water, to allow some water space to help take care of any toxins the flatworms will release when they start dieing.

Keep the coral in the quaranteen bucket over night if possible. Add carbon if needed to the bucket after 6 hours or if the leather is showing adverse signs to the treatment.

Thank you Nebthet, do I keep the coral in the water that has the flatworm exit overnight?

Nebthet · #10 03-30-2011, 04:26 AM

After the six hour period, I would put some carbon in the water near your water movement source to take care of some of the toxins from the flatworms, but to be on the safe side, to ensure you get as many of the flatworms as possible, I would leave it in the flatworm exit over night. The product should not hurt your corals at all. It is the toxins from the flatworm deaths that you have to worry about. When I treated my 20L tank, I had my hammer, torch acans and sps all in there and none of them were adversely affected.