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Old 08-24-2014, 05:02 PM
Yorgi Yorgi is offline
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Default Overflow problems

Good day am having an issue I hope someone can help with. Have a 150g tank that is plumbed to a bsmt sump. Exterior back over flow and we keep getting changes to water level in overflow box. Constantly have to adjust the stupid ball valve for drain on sump and it shouldn't happen. Seems to always happen when we need to top up water in sump. Any ideas? The place that did the install has no answers and has tried various solutions that way time cost me a pile but never solve this. They say it's our fault and someone is closing the valve but again we don't touch it until water level is dangerous high in overflow box. To me it seems like it constantly gets air locks but why? How do I solve this? Any experts that can come solve for me, ie: professionals? My service techs have no answers and am sick of paying for non solutions.
Any ideas are appreciated.
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Old 08-24-2014, 05:12 PM
reefwars reefwars is offline
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Can you post some pics?

Fwiw a ball valve is useless , especially if your sump is in the basement , you need a gate valve.

In order for it to work flawlessly you also need a return chamber that keeps a steady water level , the higher the water level the more downward force the water hs from weight there for a little more power and you then have to slightly open your gate valve more .
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Old 08-24-2014, 05:14 PM
reefwars reefwars is offline
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Also if your valves are at tank level then tuning it is going to be harder then if the gate valve was at sump level.


In order to get a precise level height in your overflow box that doesn't fluctuate you need a stable return section and proper plumbing design and materials .
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Old 08-24-2014, 05:15 PM
davej davej is offline
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Do you have ATO?
If problem manifests when water is low, ATO would remedy this with constant water depth.
On a reef tank an ATO is something I would never go without, best money you can spend in my opinion.
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Old 08-24-2014, 05:23 PM
The Guy The Guy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reefwars View Post
Also if your valves are at tank level then tuning it is going to be harder then if the gate valve was at sump level.


In order to get a precise level height in your overflow box that doesn't fluctuate you need a stable return section and proper plumbing design and materials .
Agreed, I would leave the ball valve wide open and add a gate valve down at your sump.
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Old 08-24-2014, 05:43 PM
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eli@fijireefrock.com eli@fijireefrock.com is offline
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Agree with the above.
The water level fluctuation in your sump will play a big role on the pressure of your return pump giving you different water levels in your overflow box and it seems you let the water drop too low in your sump before replenishing the evaporated water.
By now if your sump is one compartment best is getting a ATO and a gate valve is best.
Or if you have different compartments in your sump and your return pump is in one try never to get the water level in the sump go over the compartment separation level for the return pump as this will void its job of keeping the main tank water level in check.
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Old 08-24-2014, 05:55 PM
intarsiabox intarsiabox is offline
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What kind of plumbing design did they put in your overflow box? Is there not an emergency drain line? I'm guessing it's a herbie style if there is a valve on the overflow drain line to the sump.
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