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#21
11-07-2016, 11:16 PM
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[quote=gmann;1001761]
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The bacteria you do have in the tank right now are starved for Nitrate. Dosing nopox at this point will just remove whatever trace amounts of Nitrates are left and not do much if anything to reduce phosphates. This will no doubt make your cyano issue worse. Hold off on the chemiclean for now. Get your nitrates up first. I struggled with this and in the end dosed NaNO3. Other ways of doing it, but worked for me and has worked for others. You can feed more, feed corals more, get more fish, etc. But be careful what you do doesn't also increase phosphates. After your nitrates come up, then slowly introduce nopox.
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#22
11-07-2016, 11:21 PM
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 Regarding the RO water, it does take a long time. The most convenient way to do it is to either tap into a line or hook it up to a laundry tub. Then have two containers - one for RO/DI and one for saltwater mixing/storage. For a tank your size, I'd recommend the RO tub be around 20 gallons, and the saltwater tub be about 60-80 gallons or more if you want to store a few waterchanges at a time. Then you tee off the output of your RO, at a float valve to each tub, and a ball valve going to each tub. Then you just open the ball valve of the tub you want to fill and let it run overnight or while you're at work and they will shut off auto-magically.  Works great. You can buy faster membranes too - I use a 150 GPD membrane, so I can fill up a 60 gallon tub in about 10 hours. A 75 GPD membrane would take twice as long. I got the membrane from Bulk Reef Supply, and 6 years later I'm still getting 2-3 ppm TDS out of the membrane, so they are very good quality.
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#23
11-08-2016, 03:30 AM
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Did you change your lights or bulbs; or altered photoperiod ? When my acans and chalices are out in the open, they either bleached or melted....
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#24
11-08-2016, 04:14 PM
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#25
11-08-2016, 04:24 PM
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Hey all, does this make sense given my situation
plan of action: #1 - dose chemiclean, I know someone said not to, but cyano is creeping up on my corals. #2 - water change to remove chemi clean stuff #3 - stop dosing fozdown & zeobak #4 - remove filter socks, and up the feeding in hopes of raising nitrates. should I remove the hydroton too? #5 - once I see nitrates, start dosing nopox and try and maintain a reading of 1 for nitrates. Did I miss anything? Should I lower the amount of my monthly water changes?
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#26
11-08-2016, 04:50 PM
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i would use chemiclean as a last resort.
if you do, suck out all the cyano first and make sure to use an airstone. as you start increasing nitrates slowly reduce the other phosphate removal you're doing. you're looking for a balance. things are going to seesaw back and forth for a couple weeks until the bacteria catches up. One thing at a time though. and make changes slowly.
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#27
11-08-2016, 05:27 PM
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Don't use chemiclean, it's only a band aid for an infection...not the cure.
We know why you are getting cyano, the simple answer is your tank is off balance. Kessils are strong so be aware that LEDs can burn Lps. A few things you can do. Remove filter socks, skim wetter, suck out as much cyano during water changes, do more frequent but smaller water changes and siphon cyano. For WC turn off return and gyre. Blast corals with a maxijet or hydro koralia to get cyano off when the cyano settles on the sand bed siphon it out. Keep repeating these steps. It's better to do. 10g wc every day than a 90g one day. Corals like Lps need to be fed, I feed mine every other day when the lights are out. Especially scollies and other meaty corals like symphyllia, Tracy, fungia and donuts. You can get a head mounted led and go in when lights are off to feed the Lps, just get some krill or larger mysis, shut off flow if you have to and feed 2-3 times per week. If you are feeding krill cut them into smaller pieces. Your corals will love you and after they regurgitate the food the shrimps and maybe even fish will have some food. Just make sure the Lps coral consume the food and expel before you feed more. When I fed my scollies by hand before sometimes they would keep it for a day and a half before spitting it out. Make sure they have empty stomach before feeding more as they can gut rot themselves to death. Whatever you do just take your time and do it slow. This hobby can be rewarding and sometimes a chore... after all we are trying to replicate god creation but we are not immortals more like slaves to our tanks. Anyhow try feeding and blowing the cyano and smaller wc. I bet in a months time the tank will perk back up. Also try to run your lights bluer with less white from the kessils. This will give your corals a chance to open up more and not fuel the cyano as much. Keep us updated on how it goes!
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Always looking for the next best coral... 90g starphire cube/400mhRadium20k/2 XHO/2x27w UV/2x39w T5/ 3 Trulumen led strips
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#28
11-08-2016, 05:55 PM
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#29
11-09-2016, 07:38 AM
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Reducing your light level is the right step, IMO.
How deep is your sand bed? If cyno keeps coming back, maybe you want to remove some sands, go bare bottom or just keep a very thin layer of it for decorative. You don't really need to dose all those chemicals. Turn off the light for a few days while cyno is making a come back is better. Once that's under control, hopefully LPS receding will stop. My two cents.
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#30
11-09-2016, 09:00 PM
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as for the lights, I did try that for 3 days, but after the water change the cyano came back.
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