LPS corals receding

[gmann]

Originally Posted by Myka

Sorry, more nitrate...auto correct typo. Get a better NO3 kit to conform your testing - I like Salifert or Red Sea Pro.



Lighting looks fine. Your CUC is sadly lacking. I'm betting if you added a bunch of CUC the algae would get eaten and not come back as long as the CUC is alive still.

You said 60 gallons is about 25% wc, so your tank is probably a 180 or 230 depending on sump?? If so, I'd suggest 10 Trochus (15 if they are small) and 20 Scarlet Hermits (not other types) to start. See where that gets you - you may need quite a bit more.



Basting is one of the best ways to help combat an algae problem.

I missed that 37 ppt...that's walking the edge of safety and if your calibration is off this could easily become 30 ppt which could cerainly kill your corals on its own. Natural seawater is typically 35 ppt and there is no reason to aim for any other number in a reef tank. Make sure you calibrate with a SEAWATER calibration solution (not sodium chloride solution, not ro water).

I already calibrate with solution, so I believe it is pretty accurate. as for the clean up crew, I will grab more along with a new test kit this week. Thanks for your feedback.

[dino]

I used to use the spring water until I started to measure the tds in it and would sometimes get 15-25 tds so I switched to r.o and never looked back. cleared up a lot of algae issues and corals are happier

[H2o2]

Just a thought stray voltage

[Myka]

Originally Posted by gmann

I already calibrate with solution, so I believe it is pretty accurate. as for the clean up crew, I will grab more along with a new test kit this week. Thanks for your feedback.

You're welcome.

Regarding the RO water, it does take a long time. The most convenient way to do it is to either tap into a line or hook it up to a laundry tub. Then have two containers - one for RO/DI and one for saltwater mixing/storage. For a tank your size, I'd recommend the RO tub be around 20 gallons, and the saltwater tub be about 60-80 gallons or more if you want to store a few waterchanges at a time. Then you tee off the output of your RO, at a float valve to each tub, and a ball valve going to each tub. Then you just open the ball valve of the tub you want to fill and let it run overnight or while you're at work and they will shut off auto-magically. Works great.

You can buy faster membranes too - I use a 150 GPD membrane, so I can fill up a 60 gallon tub in about 10 hours. A 75 GPD membrane would take twice as long. I got the membrane from Bulk Reef Supply, and 6 years later I'm still getting 2-3 ppm TDS out of the membrane, so they are very good quality.

[iamfrontosa]

Did you change your lights or bulbs; or altered photoperiod ? When my acans and chalices are out in the open, they either bleached or melted....

[gmann]

Originally Posted by iamfrontosa

Did you change your lights or bulbs; or altered photoperiod ? When my acans and chalices are out in the open, they either bleached or melted....

no if anything I added back the t5's. Only thing I have been playing with is gyre location. Trying to get better flow to combat the cyano.

[gmann]

Hey all, does this make sense given my situation

plan of action:

#1 - dose chemiclean, I know someone said not to, but cyano is creeping up on my corals.

#2 - water change to remove chemi clean stuff

#3 - stop dosing fozdown & zeobak

#4 - remove filter socks, and up the feeding in hopes of raising nitrates. should I remove the hydroton too?

#5 - once I see nitrates, start dosing nopox and try and maintain a reading of 1 for nitrates.

Did I miss anything? Should I lower the amount of my monthly water changes?

[warriorcookie]

i would use chemiclean as a last resort.

if you do, suck out all the cyano first and make sure to use an airstone.

as you start increasing nitrates slowly reduce the other phosphate removal you're doing. you're looking for a balance. things are going to seesaw back and forth for a couple weeks until the bacteria catches up.

One thing at a time though. and make changes slowly.

[tang daddy]

Don't use chemiclean, it's only a band aid for an infection...not the cure.

We know why you are getting cyano, the simple answer is your tank is off balance. Kessils are strong so be aware that LEDs can burn Lps.

A few things you can do.

Remove filter socks, skim wetter, suck out as much cyano during water changes, do more frequent but smaller water changes and siphon cyano. For WC turn off return and gyre. Blast corals with a maxijet or hydro koralia to get cyano off when the cyano settles on the sand bed siphon it out. Keep repeating these steps. It's better to do. 10g wc every day than a 90g one day.

Corals like Lps need to be fed, I feed mine every other day when the lights are out. Especially scollies and other meaty corals like symphyllia, Tracy, fungia and donuts.

You can get a head mounted led and go in when lights are off to feed the Lps, just get some krill or larger mysis, shut off flow if you have to and feed 2-3 times per week. If you are feeding krill cut them into smaller pieces. Your corals will love you and after they regurgitate the food the shrimps and maybe even fish will have some food. Just make sure the Lps coral consume the food and expel before you feed more. When I fed my scollies by hand before sometimes they would keep it for a day and a half before spitting it out. Make sure they have empty stomach before feeding more as they can gut rot themselves to death. Whatever you do just take your time and do it slow. This hobby can be rewarding and sometimes a chore... after all we are trying to replicate god creation but we are not immortals more like slaves to our tanks. Anyhow try feeding and blowing the cyano and smaller wc. I bet in a months time the tank will perk back up. Also try to run your lights bluer with less white from the kessils. This will give your corals a chance to open up more and not fuel the cyano as much.

Keep us updated on how it goes!