tank dismantle and glass cutting

[StirCrazy]

Originally Posted by Dez

Hi,


Cutting - the easy part. Go to a stain glass shop and get a glass cutter (dont' get the cheap home depot scribe one - I've had less successful experiences with these as it's a scribe and not a wheel). You can get a nice glass cutter for under $20 at a stain glass shop .

you can save a lot of money going to home depot and buying a wheeled cutter. personaly I have never seen a drag scribe for glass.

if you do not buy one with an oiler make sure you use a bit of oil on the cutting wheel.. dip it in and then shake it a little. if you are only doing a small bit of cutting don't waist money on the tungston carbon wheels just get the regular hardened steel wheel and you will be looking at about 8 bucks. I used a bit of air tool oil as that what I had laying around but any light weight mineral oil will work.

I never used a wire wheel or brush when I did mine, just scrape with the razor blades real good till you can't see any silicone then I used acatone to clean any residual stuff off. the problem with the wire wheel or brush is you have to be very very carefull not to put any scratches in the area you are cutting as there will be a chance of the cut following the scratch instead of the cut line.

if it is going to be a critical cut use a strait edge to guide your cutter and start off the glass and continue to cut till you run off the end and no stopping along the way. it has to be one long fluid cut using constant pressure or you can cause chipping int he glass which can cause your break to run off instead of staying true. not as hard as it sounds.. I did a curved one free hand and it worked pretty good.

Steve

[StirCrazy]

Originally Posted by Dez

Hi,

if your scribed line is down, snap in the direction of your scribe line (push the leftover section down) 2. Get pliers from the stained glass shop meant to break glass along scribe line - they'll tell you how to use it. It's not scary - really easy.

hmm the glass shop out here showed me and told me the opposite. they explained it as your suposed to pull the scribe appart not compress it.. and they broke it down witht he scribe up...

here is a pic on how you are suposed to use running plyers.. if you notice the score is on the top and you are pushing up on the bottom middle to seperate the score and compress the bottom

[Dez]

Originally Posted by StirCrazy

hmm the glass shop out here showed me and told me the opposite. they explained it as your suposed to pull the scribe appart not compress it.. and they broke it down witht he scribe up...

here is a pic on how you are suposed to use running plyers.. if you notice the score is on the top and you are pushing up on the bottom middle to seperate the score and compress the bottom

You are completely correct steve - I meant to go edit my post because I was on a business call while typing my original post, then I left to go do a work job and just got home and was about to edit it. Thanks for noticing the details Steve. It is tough to talk on the phone (and pretend you're interested) while typing on Canreef (which is more of an interest than work).

[StirCrazy]

Originally Posted by Dez

It is tough to talk on the phone (and pretend you're interested) while typing on Canreef (which is more of an interest than work).

I have been there, oh to often LOL

[Dez]

Have you figured out what you are going to do with the tank yet? Keep us updated.

Dez

[reefnut]

well i managed to cut one piece and broke the other.after a trip to the local glass shop im ready to start putting this thing together.toatl measurements are 38"l x 20"h x 22"d.rough capacity is around 70 gal ish.two more question though,1.what is the best silicone to use?so far im planning on GE Silicone 1 100% silicone rubber,thoughts or suggestions please.2.im going to keep the joints as clean as possible and dont plan on any bracing at all, just the glass box, any thoughts on this?the original tank was 8" longer and had absolutley no bracing.the trim was mitered at each corner.thanks.

[reefnut]

i was just reading another forum and have yet another question about this tank.it is a flat bottom.the botton pane si sitting on the stand and the side are butted up to it all around.how should i sit it.directly on the wood or with a piece of foam between tank and stand?

[BlueAbyss]

I would place a thin piece of neoprene foam between the bottom of the tank and the stand... less chance of cracking the bottom pane from uneven 2x4s or whatever.

[ALBERTA REEF]

I have found waxed dental floss (flavoured or not) works great. First remove all the inside and outside silicone (I will pile up and cause the floss to brake). start with the one panel at a time. I like to start with the small side panels. Slowly work the floss through. Keep running the flos through like doing your teeth. ever so often might have to clean the wax out. the floss will brake alot but once you fine the feel for it it cut eazy. Half way down the cut go to the opposite panel do the same. Then you can use a razor blade to slightly wedge the panels. Then continue with the seams. Once the one panel seams are completely cut then carefull rock that panel back and forth. While rocking you can run a razor blade or zip knife alone the seal. then repeat with the other panels. Keep in mined patience it will come apart. One note wear glove just in case. Good luck.

[Ross]

GE Silicone 1 works great.
I have 2 tanks held together with it and no issues.
A 77 gallon (48w x 24t x 16d) and a 10 gallon Nano.