#11
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I built my stucture with fijicrete and moved it after, but I used zip ties to hold it until it was cured then cut most of them off. I left a few zip ties hidden in the rock work for insurance and also there is an arcylic rod supporting some of it. When I drilled my rock I used a masonry bit and used a regular half inch drill and went really slow and let the bit do the work. I tested drilling the rock on a few extra pieces before i did my main structure.
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#12
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So no hammer drill but masonry bit?
__________________
ReefDudes Shallow Reef Tank | Fusion 30L Tank Log | DIY FishTankProjects | Arduino Auto Doser | Fluval Edge nano Reef |
#13
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Did you peel the rock apart. Put fijicrete in beteeeen and rebuild it or zip tie then shove fijicrete into all the cracks that connect?
__________________
ReefDudes Shallow Reef Tank | Fusion 30L Tank Log | DIY FishTankProjects | Arduino Auto Doser | Fluval Edge nano Reef |
#14
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Quote:
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#15
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Not trying to be a hater but seen multiple structures fall apart months after in tank not sure if it was used right.
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#16
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Aside from cement that takes ages to cure and be tank safe is there epoxies (2 part) or anything that is solid and strong and reef safe? Like gorilla glue 2 part epoxy?
__________________
ReefDudes Shallow Reef Tank | Fusion 30L Tank Log | DIY FishTankProjects | Arduino Auto Doser | Fluval Edge nano Reef |
#17
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Reef safe epoxies are all garbage for rock aquascaping. They never cure to the same hardness as the rocks and are way pricier to scale over an entire project.
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This and that. |
#18
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Waterweld from Home Depot worked really well for me. Strength is 900 psi
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#19
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Albert's right on price. They are roughly $10 per small tube lol
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#20
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Fijicrete between rocks then zip tie it and add more fijicrete to the joint and let cure for 24 hours before moving to display. I built mine in rubbermaid tub and filled it with water after to keep rocks live with minimal dieoff while it cured. And yes just masonry bit in a regular drill.
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