Duckhams' 75G Reef Build - Eurobraced/BeanAnimal

Myka · #1 12-11-2015, 01:33 AM

[quote=Elliott@BigReefDepot.com;973486]I do have an overflow insert that came with the tank, im just leaving it out for now so that I can play around with the flow settings on the Vectra M1 and I need to be able to see the water level in the overflow box.

It will go in soon enough, don't worry!/quote]

Oh good! I was like, "Woah, fail."

That sump setup is looking pretty slick too. I saw you have the colored PVC pipe - I might have to order some.

Duckhams · #2 12-11-2015, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Myka

Oh good! I was like, "Woah, fail."

That sump setup is looking pretty slick too. I saw you have the colored PVC pipe - I might have to order some.

Lol! Thanks! We have lots of the coloured PVC in stock, it's got a nice shiny finish to it, it looks so much better than the industrial stuff. All the fittings have tapered edges too which makes it look much more 'fitted' for lack of a better term. Im glad I redid the plumbing at the same time, it was totally worth it.

Myka · #3 12-11-2015, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elliott@BigReefDepot.com

Lol! Thanks! We have lots of the coloured PVC in stock, it's got a nice shiny finish to it, it looks so much better than the industrial stuff. All the fittings have tapered edges too which makes it look much more 'fitted' for lack of a better term. Im glad I redid the plumbing at the same time, it was totally worth it.

Yeah, I noticed those fittings look really nice, but you need gate valves, ball valves, and reducer bushings.

I did all my plumbing in SCH80 which looks pretty slick too, but yours looks a lot brighter.

If you found reducers like these, that would be sweet. (I linked instead because the pic is huge)

Duckhams · #4 12-11-2015, 02:56 PM

I didn't need to use reducers anywhere on the system, but a gate valve would be much easier to adjust for the beananimal overflow. I find the ball valves work ok, and are a lot cheaper. Plus I can dial it in with the Vectra now, so a gate valve isn't as important.

If you need plumbing, email me and let me know what you're looking for and I'll package discount your order for you.

Duckhams · #5 12-11-2015, 03:00 PM

A few pics of my fish in the new setup, I also have a pair of clown fish and will try to keep this as my bioload for a while. I've got to get my dosing system online and get the frags up in the rock work. Still lots of work to do!

Myka · #6 12-11-2015, 03:10 PM

Wow, great fish photos!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elliott@BigReefDepot.com

I didn't need to use reducers anywhere on the system, but a gate valve would be much easier to adjust for the beananimal overflow. I find the ball valves work ok, and are a lot cheaper. Plus I can dial it in with the Vectra now, so a gate valve isn't as important.

If you need plumbing, email me and let me know what you're looking for and I'll package discount your order for you.

Sorry, my comments were for your website, not your tank. I do need a reliable source for gate valves and bulkheads (for my business), but I get the rest of my plumbing from a local plumbing store.

Bugger · #7 12-11-2015, 10:36 PM

Whaat did you use to treat the aptasia?

Duckhams · #8 12-13-2015, 01:29 PM

Over the years i've tried the aip-zapper, super glue tombs, kalk paste, biological options, but the best method i've found is manual removal with a sharpened flat-head screw driver. A matted filefish also works wonders but they'll also go after every other type of anemone in the tank too. A sharpened screwdriver and aggressive coral cutters are my weapons of choice.