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#9
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I only have my skimmer, return pump and 2 heaters plugged into my controller. powerheads and lights have their own controllers and the switch from MH to LED opened 3 additional outlets up so when I get around to it im going to use them to make WC and top off pumps run. not automatic but just so I hit a button and pump starts hit it again pump stops. with a ball valve that needs to be open first before it can go to the display. I just dont like the idea of cheep float swtiches connecting a 55gal drum of freshwater to my DT. Now with so much equiptment have their own controllers (powerheads, DC pumps, LEDs, dosers ) I question whether a controller is necessary any more for me but I have it so Im going to continue to use it. In my case Ill never run an ATO so all the float switches and alarms dont benifit me, no ca reactor so i havent checked my ph probe in years, house has central air so a chiller isnt required, so a $50 ranco heater a $10 digital thermometer controller and a couple of manual switched outlets so for roughly $75 I have almost the same thing 4-600 controller for how mine is used. but this is no where near the capibilities of the controller either. A good controller is also almost endless in what you can do with it as well. reduncy for auto top off reduncy for heaters stabile heat and cooling automatic water changes every safety feature you could possibly come up with. time delays on outlets. MH safety ( time delay start ups, lights off if tank reaches certain temp.) they are a very nice piece of equiptment to have and a necessity if you run ATO chillers, MH lights, any non programmable light reallyjjust to ditch 3-5 manual timers, ca reactor, if you want an auto WC system.
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250G DD LED SPS R.I.P. 180G LED SPS 80"x36". 300G custom build Owner of Mountain Ridge Heating and Gas Class A gas fitter, HVAC |