Algae problems, Cyano or Diatoms?

[Humpty]

The phosphate test is tough to distinguish the exact shade sometimes, but it always tests between .25 and .5. It been like that since I got the test kit.
I don't think its a major problem right now but I know cyano in a freshwater tank can go from minor to major very quickly.
I would like to stay away from chemicals like chemiclean unless no other options work for me. I not a big fan of adding chemicals, I would rather adjust some things and see what happens.
I've heard about the vodka dosing but have never tried it. I get very busy in the summer and would have a hard time dosing everyday. I will do some more reading on the subject.

For now I made some adjustments to my chaeto and lighting in the sump. I've turned the output in the sump to point at the chaeto which is keeping it tumbling. I also moved my powerheads and outputs in my main tank to point towards some areas that have the most cyano.

I thought that turbo snails don't eat cyano but its mowing down a lot of the red algae on my glass. That's the main reason I was not sure if it was cyano or not.

[BubblesUp]

No other options worked for me so I went with the Chemi-clean. It worked and haven't had a problem since. It came in on a piece for me.

[Humpty]

Well that's good to know. I have looked into chemi-clean but I don't think my problem is big enough yet to use it. If I can't keep it under control I may consider that option.

[GoFish]

I never had cyano until using Phosphate Solution (Precision solutions) to lower phosphate. It worked great but then got Cyano for the first time... Used chemiclean as directed and the cyano disappeared within 3 days and hasn't come back
I can't tell from your pictures if it's cyano, just saying if it is +1 to chemiclean

[reefwars]

Originally Posted by Humpty

The phosphate test is tough to distinguish the exact shade sometimes, but it always tests between .25 and .5. It been like that since I got the test kit.
I don't think its a major problem right now but I know cyano in a freshwater tank can go from minor to major very quickly.
I would like to stay away from chemicals like chemiclean unless no other options work for me. I not a big fan of adding chemicals, I would rather adjust some things and see what happens.
I've heard about the vodka dosing but have never tried it. I get very busy in the summer and would have a hard time dosing everyday. I will do some more reading on the subject.

For now I made some adjustments to my chaeto and lighting in the sump. I've turned the output in the sump to point at the chaeto which is keeping it tumbling. I also moved my powerheads and outputs in my main tank to point towards some areas that have the most cyano.

I thought that turbo snails don't eat cyano but its mowing down a lot of the red algae on my glass. That's the main reason I was not sure if it was cyano or not.

Is that an API test kit your using for phosphate? If so then it most likely will always red between those two , it's not a good test kit at all.

More flow spreads the cyano , that's more of an old thinking that turned out to be the opposite , so don't spread it further (it's not algae) by blowing it around if anything siphon it out of the syste all together.

Turbo snails will eat sme cyano or at least they graze through their path , however they won't eat the large 1/8" thick slimy mats when it's severe.

[Humpty]

Ya it's an api test kit. So is it pretty much useless then?
What brand would you recommend?

Good to know about spreading cyano, I'll reposition the outputs tomorrow.

I can't seem to get much of it out with the syphon, it's so thin right now it sticks to the rocks. I'm sure if it gets worse it'll be easier to siphon out. The only place I can clean it easy is the glass which I can't really siphon after. That's also the place that the snails do the most work.

[reefwars]

For phosphate I prefer a Hanna tester or a salifert test kit

I wouldn't worry too much about it yet maybe kill the lights for a day or two then if it comes back look at other things like nutrient import/export

[Humpty]

Ok so should I blackout the main tank and leave the light on in the sump for the chaeto or black out both tanks?
I know the blackout works amazing in planted tanks but will the corals handle the blackout ok? I have candy canes, lobos, favias, hammer, frogspawn, mushrooms, and a few zoas.

[reefwars]

Originally Posted by Humpty

Ok so should I blackout the main tank and leave the light on in the sump for the chaeto or black out both tanks?
I know the blackout works amazing in planted tanks but will the corals handle the blackout ok? I have candy canes, lobos, favias, hammer, frogspawn, mushrooms, and a few zoas.

most likely dont have to go to that extreme , but just to not turn your lights on for a day ....everything else stays the same

its not a bad case so no need to pull out the big guns unless it doesnt go away

[Humpty]

Originally Posted by reefwars

most likely dont have to go to that extreme , but just to not turn your lights on for a day ....everything else stays the same

its not a bad case so no need to pull out the big guns unless it doesnt go away

I agree that its not too bad yet. I like to make small changes, big changes seem to cause more problems.

I've been reading about vinegar dosing, it's interesting. Is this something I should start doing or should I give it more time for my tank to system to balance out? Or stay away from it unless it is needed?