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  #41  
Old 01-07-2015, 12:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coral Hoarder View Post
OK thanks!
No problem.

BTW always add acid to water and not the other way around.
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  #42  
Old 01-07-2015, 12:55 AM
Coral Hoarder Coral Hoarder is offline
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Thanks and yea haha read that
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  #43  
Old 01-07-2015, 01:27 AM
mohammadali mohammadali is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FishyFishy! View Post
Muriatic acid. Available in concentration from most pool/spa stores.

in 15G water with LR in it how much Acid should i add ?
this Acid sold in 1G
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  #44  
Old 01-07-2015, 01:37 AM
Coral Hoarder Coral Hoarder is offline
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15 gal ÷100×30 =4.5 galons
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  #45  
Old 01-07-2015, 05:11 AM
Masonjames Masonjames is offline
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Calcite will attract and bind phospahtes just as gfo does. It chemically binds it. If any level of po4 is present it will quickly bind to calcite and can do so until saturation. This goes for any calcium carbonate structure.

Most dry rock/live rock will more then likey come from three sources, either a fellow reefer, inland mining or lagoonal waters. All of which have ample levels of po4.

But it doesn't matter where it came from. If you have dry rock, you have bound po4. It's means of freeing up bound po4 has been removed. The only differnce between live rock and dry rock in terms of what happends with bound po4 is the bacterial proccess that take place that break the bond. Healty live rock is self cleaning if given the appropriate environment to do so. An enviromnet with po4 levels greater then that of which the bacteria can utilize, the calcite structure slowly fills up to the point of saruration. This is why live rock can come with just as much bound po4 as dry. And this is why dry WILL have bound po4.

It's there wether a person wants to believe it or not. Wether it is of concern to an individual or not, well that is up to the user. But for those who want to deal with what WILL be bound po4 prior to indroduction into a system then there are many great ways to achieve this.

For live rock and dry rock. Cooking is best.

Dry rock. Bleach, acid is the quickest and simplest. But keep in mind that the acid will remove a layer or rock which is bound with po4. A good thing. But by doing so you also now expose new calcite free of po4. As soon as this calcite comes back into contact with po4.... Well... Why it's the second best option.

I myself use the latter.

Many aslo have great success and little to no issue purging in tank. Don't want denny to feel left out. Lol.

But if your not going to follow any of that up with proper husbandry practices for keeping your calcium carbonate structures healthy. Then don't bother. Your destined for algae problems despite the rock then.
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  #46  
Old 01-08-2015, 09:21 AM
mohammadali mohammadali is offline
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I dont have any Algae problem but my phosphate is 2.0 i tested with API test kit but my corals lost color
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  #47  
Old 01-08-2015, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mohammadali View Post
I dont have any Algae problem but my phosphate is 2.0 i tested with API test kit but my corals lost color
Common for high phosphate, it will not only prohibit color, it will also stun growth when your phosphate is in that range.
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  #48  
Old 01-09-2015, 12:12 PM
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I hope in the next week I can do the acid bath again. This time I'll go a few hours.

Just a quick question. When you do the acid bath are you guys finding you end up with a bunch of rubble that you never had before?

I'd like for my rocks to stay as much in tact as I can get
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  #49  
Old 01-09-2015, 06:37 PM
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The only rubble I got was from me banging my rocks together. You needn't worry.
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  #50  
Old 01-09-2015, 07:11 PM
nbreau nbreau is offline
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So what is the alternative to acid bathing ? Simply allowing the rock to sit in a rubbermaid with a heater and powerhead ? If so how long does this process take vs acid bathing ?

I've got about 65lbs of magnificent pukani and shelf rock on it's way from Eli and want to make sure I understand both options ...
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