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Old 01-08-2015, 10:11 PM
KevinK KevinK is offline
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in the spec it tells: Each node produces full-color, daylight-visible light output of up to 11 candela. -

1 candela = 12.57 lumen

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lumen_%28unit%29

A full sphere has a solid angle of 4·π steradians,[1] so a light source that uniformly radiates one candela in all directions has a total luminous flux of 1 cd·4π sr = 4π cd·sr ≈ 12.57 lumens.[2]

so if you have 50 nodes, you have 628 lumen,
I might be missing something, but this is not much

again, unless I miss something
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Old 01-09-2015, 01:11 AM
reefwithareefer reefwithareefer is offline
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Thanks guys
I know nothing when it comes to electrical, but if you are right. then it does not seem like much. Then again, what about Par and PUR...

You can get controllers that fit in a outlet box all the way to a 24 volt controller made by phillips. There are other brands that can control them as well. The controller is not really my issue. My issue is tryiong to find out if it give the right amount of "intensity" and "Pur". Do they have the right spectrum etc...

An Electrician I am not. You figure for a grand a string they would be good for a tank....
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Old 01-09-2015, 01:28 AM
reefwithareefer reefwithareefer is offline
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Spec sheet shows 30 lumens per node

http://colorkinetics.com/support/dat..._SpecSheet.pdf
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Old 01-09-2015, 05:51 AM
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mike31154 mike31154 is offline
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These LEDs are designed for a purpose other than specifically lighting up a reef tank. It doesn't matter how much they cost originally, without actually measuring PUR/PAR & knowing exactly what spectrum & intensity each node puts out, you're working with an unknown. Wouldn't be advisable to experiment with a tank full of valuable specimens. May be great at lighting up buildings or bridges at night, but perhaps not a reef tank.

FWIW, 30 lumens per node is diddly. Depending on the colour spectrum, the cheap Chinese 10 watt multi chips I used for my DIY fixture put out anywhere from 200 to 900 lumens each at their rated maximum current & I have 27 of these babies mounted over my 77 gallon tank. Mind you I don't run them at full power, but definitely get more than 30 lumens. I have mostly softies in my tank, but also a BTA & several monti caps that are doing very well.

By all means, if you have the controller & can get your rig working over a tank, give it a try, but as at least one other responder has mentioned, you may be better off looking for a fixture built for our hobby.

EDIT: After having a look at the link you provided, I see that each node is a simple RGB LED array running at 1 watt max each. No UV, or some of the other colours provide by quality reef fixtures these days.
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DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=82206

Last edited by mike31154; 01-09-2015 at 06:06 AM.
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Old 01-10-2015, 11:52 PM
reefwithareefer reefwithareefer is offline
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It seems that it is not worh finding out. I was hoping it would work, but no biggie. I will use them as patio lights. I could use them for red and green, since those colors are useless for corals other than making them "POP".

Thanks for all the input.
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Old 01-11-2015, 03:17 AM
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I should mention that I run a couple of low power RGB strips to supplement the more powerful 10 watt multi chips. My build thread shows them near the end I think. My lights are on timers, not a controller or drivers able to ramp up/down the main LEDs, so the RGB strips are good as a rudimentary dawn/dusk substitute. You could do the same with a few of the modules you have. They'd also be good as fuge lights to grow algae (red & green spectrum), so not a total loss. Patio lights are cool too.
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