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  #11  
Old 12-16-2014, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashr View Post
Sorry. It was late haha. Yes I want to use a single pump to return flow to both returns on the tank. The return hole is 3/4 and so is the outlet on the pump. Is it worth switching the pump outlet to 1'' and run a 1'' pipe to a ball valve and then into a smaller 3/4 pipe to connect to my returns. Or would it be better to run 3/4 all the way.
I cant see a noticeable advantage to using 1" if your pump output is only 3/4". but it wouldn't hurt anything
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  #12  
Old 12-17-2014, 03:06 AM
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Thanks!

I am also trying to figure out what return pump to buy. I am running a bean animal with a coast/coast over flow. 1" drains.
I am looking at:

Fluval Sea SP2
Quiet One Pro 4000
EHEIM 1260 or 1262


I have all read great stuff about these pumps. The SP2 and Eheim are pretty high cost and then Pro 4000 is a lot cheaper. Any thoughts on these?

Thanks
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  #13  
Old 12-17-2014, 03:30 AM
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I havent tried the fluval but my quiet one is awesome. thats my recommendation.
My eheim is good but it makes a weird noise on start up. not a huge deal but thats it really. The quiet one is low power too
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  #14  
Old 12-17-2014, 05:14 AM
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Originally Posted by CM125 View Post
I havent tried the fluval but my quiet one is awesome. thats my recommendation.
My eheim is good but it makes a weird noise on start up. not a huge deal but thats it really. The quiet one is low power too
I am leaning towards the Q One 4000. The head height GPH is still good. The SP2 loses a lot of GPH even at 4.5 feet.. hmmm
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  #15  
Old 12-17-2014, 07:19 AM
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Check out Sicce Syncra... I'm running a 3.0, it's virtually silent, and I bought it for $80 on amazon (bout half price).
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  #16  
Old 12-17-2014, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by IanWR View Post
Are you not concerned with the check valve failing? I didn't use them when I did my plumbing since I had read so much about detritus/sponges/snails/worms getting in and causing the check valve to malfunction. Perhaps check valve technology has changed since I did my research?
I use a transparent true union check valve, so I can easily monitor its condition/performance and maintain it as necessary. I also run an Fluval SP4 wide open, so it would take one determined critter to get down to the check valve. Basic setup before some tuning/modifications.

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Last edited by Ulmo; 12-17-2014 at 07:55 PM.
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  #17  
Old 12-17-2014, 08:39 PM
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Forgot to mention, my check valve is also transparent so easy to see if it's getting gummed up.
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  #18  
Old 12-17-2014, 11:46 PM
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how do you find tuning the drains with ball valves?
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  #19  
Old 12-18-2014, 12:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CM125 View Post
how do you find tuning the drains with ball valves?
They are precise enough for me. Gate valves would be a nice to have, but not a need.
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