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#1
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I would say Elos or Tunze. I have had my Elos for 2 years now and it works flawlessly. Either one will run you about $200 but they keep your water level darn near perfect which also optimizes your skimmer production.
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#2
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auto shut of valve/solenoid and a float valve from Kent worked well for me for over 10 years
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I'm out. |
#3
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+1. Best bang for the buck, for sure. I have a rodi line plumbed directly to my tank using this. Completely fail safe and trouble free.
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Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |
#4
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same here. Ro line plumbed direct to sump, on a float switch. never had a failure yet.
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#5
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The new Hydro one seems pretty good so far and is cheaper then most other options mentioned but you have to supply the pump but likely have a maxijet or similar lying around.
I like that the controller is water proof or at least water resistant. I spilled water on my tunze controller once years ago and that was it. It is probably still the best in that you take a few ml out and it comes on. The hydro one there needs to be a very slight drop in water level but more significant. Not enough to effect salinity but I don't think its coming on anywhere near as much as a tunze or jbj. The JBJ seems pretty good too, I also use one of these on my pico. I recently had a sensor die for no apparent reason but it was going for several years and since I only use one I simply swapped it for the other one and its back to working great. Really any option is better then manual. |
#6
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So your RODI runs for short bursts to top off your system? Usually not a good idea due to TDS creep. RO systems work most efficiently when used in longer runs, not short 5 minute bursts. I know you guys on the coast have pretty low source TDS, so might not be an issue. I would never do that here with a source TDS in the range of 180. It takes a good 3 to 5 minutes to get the the RO output TDS down to 1 from 20 or more on initial start up. And if I ran that 20 TDS on start up through my DI stage with multiple short on/off cycles on a continuing basis, it wouldn't take long to exhaust the media. Without the DI stage I'd be adding unwanted TDS to my tank in pretty short order.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=82206 |
#7
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Quote:
__________________
Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |
#8
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Can I +2 this? Same here, works great.
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Brad |
#9
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If I send ro straight to my sump via a float doesn't this mean the rodi will continuously generate waste water?
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#10
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Only when it's actively topping up. No different that manually filling an ATO unit.
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Brad |