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#1
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![]() You didn't mention how much water you're going to be mixing for your waterchanges (WCs)
I use a maxi-jet (MJ) 600 and 900, and a 100w heater in my 20g mixing tank. I prefer to have the new saltwater (NSW) the same temp as the DT before adding it How much water I'm making dictates whether or not I run both powerheads or just one. One is on the bottom and the other half way up I fill the NSW tank with RO water, turn on the pump and heater, and add the salt a few cups at a time and mix with a stick to disolve it I think it was Myka who mentioned once about adding salt to cool water to avoid precipitation. I found this to be true and my new saltwater (NSW) doesn't get cloudy anymore as it did when I added the salt to warmed up water I let it sit overnight before using it. The powerhead's agitation helps with pH as it's oxygenating the water The next day, before using it, I test the specific gravity (SG) of the NSW, but don't bother testing the pH I don't need to use a hose to add my NSW as I have my mixing tank higher than my sump. I installed a bulkhead in the bottom of the 20g and, when ready to add, I just open a valve and fill away Makes water changes a breeze so I never dread them and they get done regularly You don't need a heater. Up to you A MJ can have a hose attached so after you use it for mixing, you could use it to pump the NSW You can make it as simple or as complicated as you like. Just keep in mind as Coralgurl stated, make it as easy as possible so you don't put it off |
#2
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![]() I have a dedicated water-change tank / sump tank on my system. The tank sits up over my main sump and is tee'd off my main pump. There is a single drain line that goes down to the skimmer section of my main sump.
For water changes, I simply turn off the valves on the return line and drain. I have one other plumbing line that I drilled near the bottom of the tank. It connects to a vinyl hose that I place into my floor drain in the basement. I simply open that valve and my water change tank drains entirely to the floor drain, minus about 1/8" of water that I use a Sham Wow to remove the rest. lol. I then close the drain valve and place my RO/DI line in the tank and fill it. I have a float valve to stop the water when it fills the tank. I also have a perfect measurement of salt. 17 even cups and that water is 1.025 on the dot every time. I add a powerhead when adding the salt. Stir it up and then add a heater. After 1 day, I remove the powerhead and heater, turn the return line and drain line valves open and water change is done. Physical labour is about 10 minutes of my time. No buckets needed whatsoever and I have 45G of water changed out for my entire system. Below, you can see the water change tank at the top right of the photo. Return line and drain line are on the right of the tank. You can just see the floor drain line at the bottom of the tank. It goes down towards the skimmer area and you can see where the hose is attached. ![]() |
#3
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![]() I have another simple setup. I have a 5 gallon pail with a power head and heater in it. Fill with RO/DI water, add salt, test salinity and wait for it to get up to temperature. Then I syphon my water into another 5 gal pail. Put in a pump with a hose attached in the fresh saltwater, route hose into tank, turn on pump. When saltwater is back in tank. Shut off pump. Simple, and I don't have to lift anything causing any potential spills.
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#4
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![]() i do what most people here do.
i have a mixing tank with a powerhead and heater in it. usually let my new water mix for a day minimum although i've found even a few hours is just fine. i vacuum my sandbed upstairs and then add the new water to my sump in the basement with a mag 12 while i turn my return pump back on. |
#5
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![]() Thanks for everyones suggestions.
My plan is to use a plastic bin 15 gallons to mix the saltwater in and leave a power head in for 24 hours for aeration. I'll use a pump to pump the old water out and into a bathtub with clear vinyl tubing about 30ft away. I'll add the new salt water by wheeling the container to the tank and use the same pump to get the new water in with a shorter vinyl cable. Does anyone see problems doing it this way? |
#6
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![]() when i ripped my old bathtub out a small length of plumbing connecting it to the abs main was made of metal. if you've got an old bathtub maybe send a bit of freshwater down the drain after the saltwater lol.
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