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#1
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![]() The bain of keeping little critters outside their environment, the power needs. But SW is sooo interesting!
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#2
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![]() Agreed. This hobby/obsession/lifestyle is definitely worth it.
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the lurker formerly known as THENEWGUY 75g reef w/ 20g sump, 100lbs LR, Tunze 9006 skimmer, 3 part dosing, DIY 66 LED fixture, Reefleeper Lite LED build here: http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/29498...h-mount-build/ |
#3
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![]() Like I said before, go look for a cave,... or be happy and wait for the big asteroid...
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Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |
#4
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![]() When smart meters were put into effect in Ontario I just reversed my light cycle.
I ran the Leds for suppliment in the morning and evening and ran the main lights (t5's) in the evening during "off peak hours. My power bill decreased and I didnt spend $0.01 extra. I did also get a programable thermostat and run the furnace/ac more during off peak hours
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#5
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![]() LED heater anyone?
![]() Put waterproof leds on aluminium blocks and submerge them into the water. They are "efficient" at emitting heat too isinit? ![]() Ok I shouldn't have said that being an electrical major ![]() ![]()
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You wouldn't want to see my tank. I don't use fancy equipment and I am a noob ![]() |
#6
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![]() Quote:
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the lurker formerly known as THENEWGUY 75g reef w/ 20g sump, 100lbs LR, Tunze 9006 skimmer, 3 part dosing, DIY 66 LED fixture, Reefleeper Lite LED build here: http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/29498...h-mount-build/ |
#7
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![]() The biggest (or baddest) power draw we have is our hot tub. It runs from Nov to Apr, and the power bill always goes way up for the winter. We only use it on avg about once a week. Have talked to the wife a few times, about whether it is worth it, but she wants it, so... Talked to the spa shop about a timer, but they say it is not good for the motor to shut it off and on. And we keep the heater on all the time, because we use it more as a spur of the moment decision in the evening, and wouldn't want to wait for it to heat up again.
Speaking of money sinks, though, my Shaw cable (incl internet and phone) is costing us more and more, with all the HD and specialty channels (can't give up my Oasis). We're up to 200 bucks a month on that now!! I tried pulling the "we're switching to Telus" ploy on them, but it hasn't worked so far. Seems that until you actually put in a cancellation, they won't budge. And not to mention my iPad and Smartphone costs..... My SW tanks don't looks so bad, when I look at the above, but it does all add up.... Hope I don't run out of money before that asteroid comes....
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Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |
#8
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![]() Quote:
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You wouldn't want to see my tank. I don't use fancy equipment and I am a noob ![]() |
#9
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![]() Quote:
Anyhow, waterproof SMD LED light strips have been available for quite some time now & I'm using a couple of 5050 strips to supplement my DIY 10 watt multichip build. Of course I don't have them in the water, but on a smaller system this could work quite well. It's a low voltage light source, so with proper water proofing it's no more dangerous (probably less so) than having a 300 watt heater running on 120 VAC submerged in your tank. I've ordered some LEDs that are submersible for my daughter's wedding this summer. No reason you can't throw a strip of waterproof SMD LED lighting into your tank. Here's a photo of the waterproof RGB SMD 5050 strips I have. They're covered with a substantial layer of silicone like material. All you would need to do is keep the connectors out of the water, or just gum them up with silicone too. There are also more powerful 5630 SMDs available.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#10
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![]() If you're going to submerse LED strips make sure you get IP68 rating, most are IP65 to 67 which qualifies as waterproof but not for long term submersion. The bigger issue however will be the constant need to clean the algae film off them, not sure you'll gain any benefit compared to just mounting them closer to the water surface without actually submersing them. You could always rig up a liquid cooled heat sink with some titanium tubing using tank water to extract the heat into the tank but not likely very cost effective.
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