![]() |
|
#1
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
The first course of action would be to find out what's causing your high nitrates and then come up with a solution and path forward. You don't necessarily want to drop your nitrates that far that fast, nothing good happens fast.
__________________
Robb Last edited by Parker; 02-14-2013 at 06:28 PM. |
#2
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() As important as water changes are...they are not a great way to reduce nitrates. there are many ways to reduce nitrates as mentioned above but i think you also need to find the cause of the nitrates. perhaps the two dead fish caused the spike or maybe the deaths were caused by the high nitrates. change some water and look into one of the nitrate reducing methods.
__________________
225gal dt with 100g sump. Mitras, vortechs, bubble king, AI Sol and Profilux. http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...threadid=84782 Will trade subs for frags ![]() My other summer hobby: http://www.edkra.ca |
#3
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
I would perform a 20% water change every 2 days until the nitrates are in check. During this time look for the cause of the nitrates and look into a long term solution for the nitrates. If you want some solutions, it might be a good idea to post some details about your setup / husbandry. |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]() 90 gallon reef tank with one corner overflow & opposite side return, (2) 950 gph powerheads. Estimate 75lbs Live rock with fine sand bed.
-estimate 30 gallon multi chamber sump with: -Marineland Pro 300 skimmer first chamber with return line - no filter sock -one free chamber with heater and sensors -Sedra 7000 return pump in last chamber with nano sized powerhead to keep circulation in sump & ehiem canister filter acting as a reactor filled with the red ceramic balls, introduced this when trying to seed zeobak P.H. around 8.2 Temprature 80.5-81.5 Magnesium 1100ppm-1300ppm I'll get my other readings when I'm at home tonight |
#5
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
If the fish are already stressed from the high nitrates, adding in the stress of acclimation to a very large water change isn't the best option, unless you have no choice. In which case, you do what you have too.
__________________
Robb |
#6
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() I would have no concerns doing a 80% water change. Just be sure it's very close to the existing water in all parameters you can measure. Temp, pH, Ca, etc..And don't use a different salt
![]()
__________________
Brad |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]() How often do you clean your canister filter?
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
![]() actually I haven't cleaned the canister filter - all sponge material etc. has been removed, only the ceramic balls are inside.
|
#9
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() IMO i would do five 20% changes every other day that would give your
setup a good flushing
__________________
cheers, Rich all that we do is touched with ocean, yet we remain on the shore of what we know http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/5/aquarium |
#10
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() if done carefully (similar parameters as Aquattro suggested) a larger water change (50-80%) should go just fine. This is how I have done tank transfers in the past. Fill new tank 20% with old tank water then the rest with new water. As others have said, you don't want to be doing this on a frequent basis, but for a one or two off event for quick and short term correction purposes larger water changes are fine. A few weeks ago I did two consecutive 50% water changes in my tank to help flush out a treatment that I did on my tank.
|