Help me with my sump

[Chief Hill]

I am picking up a sump made for a 29G biocube this week. So to help others in the future I will take picures and do a build on the process for others that have the same issue as myself.

My issue is since my tank is set up and running I don't want to drill out the back. So my option is a HOB overflow with U tube.
Eshopps Nano overflow offers a decent box but is only rated at 200 gph.
Is that sufficient? or is there another type I should look at instead? Also I don't want a HOB that will have my tank 6" away from the wall. As it stands now the tank sits flat against the wall.

Also my other concerns.
1 Ensuring my return rate is the same as the flow rate
2 Power distruption (although very rare if it happens how do I ensure the sump does not overflow?)
3 a HOB that takes up little space to keep the "nano appearence".

[RDNanoGuy]

1. 200 Gph will be fine. That equals approximately 6.66x turnover.

2. A good quality hob overflow should maintain siphon and restart when the there is an outage. If you want extra peace of mind get the lifereef nano overflow. They restart EVERY TIME.

3. You should be able to mount an overflow into the back chambers to conceal it from the viewing area.

Good luck!

[Chief Hill]

Originally Posted by RDNanoGuy

1. 200 Gph will be fine. That equals approximately 6.66x turnover.

2. A good quality hob overflow should maintain siphon and restart when the there is an outage. If you want extra peace of mind get the lifereef nano overflow. They restart EVERY TIME.

3. You should be able to mount an overflow into the back chambers to conceal it from the viewing area.

Good luck!

Aside from COST being a little rediculous for the Nano Lifereef nano $119 plus shipping (yes its great build quality) it uses a u tube design just like the Eshopps. So from what Iv read the Eshopps do not lose their prime either and they can be bought in Canada at J&L in lieu of shopping outside of the country. Is there a huge diffrence between the 2?

[reefwars]

biocubes are easy to drill when stocked, just drain out the back chambers and drill away, ive done loads of them

id never trust a syphon overflow ...thats scary:P

[Chief Hill]

Originally Posted by reefwars

biocubes are easy to drill when stocked, just drain out the back chambers and drill away, ive done loads of them

id never trust a syphon overflow ...thats scary:P

I never really considered just emptying out the chambers a bit.
If I were to go that route and drill out 1 hole in the 3rd chamber how far down from the top should I drill? And what size would you suggest. Something to run 1"OD pipe?

[reefwars]

Originally Posted by Chief Hill

I never really considered just emptying out the chambers a bit.
If I were to go that route and drill out 1 hole in the 3rd chamber how far down from the top should I drill? And what size would you suggest. Something to run 1"OD pipe?

If you drill down low you'll have to use a 90 and a stand pipe if you drill high you can use a strainer in the bulkhead.

1" is to big there's not a lot of room so go 3/4 Max, half would handle it but I personally don't like 1/2" plumbing.

[reefwars]

After you drill ahopvacshopvac to get out glass pieces and dry with a papertowel I would also drain the chambers completely

[Chief Hill]

So I should run 3/4" pluming?
Standpipe inside 3rd sump should work. Leading into ridged pipe on back of tank then into flexible vinyl style to reduce friction loss into sump.

No problem there. What size bulkhead and diamond hole saw should I get to accommodate going 3/4".
For my pond I typically use unseals because there easy.

[Chief Hill]

Bump what size fittings do I need?

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[Chief Hill]

Ok sump installed under tank. Lid was made yesterday to help stop moisture and a cheap but effective led light has been ordered to keep this sump lit on an opposite schedule of the dt lights. 10 lbs of live sand right from the coral tank of my lfs. Lots of life already. And a few lbs of rubble lr.
Tunze 9002 skimmer running and already pulling crud.



1" threaded bulkhead was all I could find locally I then had to customize it to remove inside threads to feed a 1" line through and shorten overall length by 2". Unit was sealed inside With gasket. Outside a small bead of jb weld clay to ensure a 100% seal. A 1" ball valve was used to enable me to shut it down for Maintenance and 1 " nylon flexible hose was used to reduce friction loss and reduce noise.



The return pump is a 350 gph mag drive with 1/2" output so I was able to tie in the original fitting of the biocube return line easily.
1/2" nylon braided line was used from the pump right to dt return using original elbow.



1" Durso stand pipe was made for the inside of chamber #3
I also had to customize this as well by cutting the 2 90 degree fittings and rejoining them so the assembly fits easily with room to play.
It runs very effectively and is very quiet.


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