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#1
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![]() How are you going to keep the tank sterile with fish eating and pooping? That's how ammonia starts up. You can treat it with all kinds of stuff, but not sure how your fish are going to like it, along with the copper, etc. Why not do it right with a fully cycled QT.
I have never used copper. I think common Ich is often mistaken for MV. The hypo routine is a lot easier on your fish, and using recycled display tank water to bring the salinity back up means they will be fully acclimatized when you're ready to move them to their permanent home. If you are going to buy $400 fish, shouldn't you be giving them the best possible start in their new home?
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Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |
#2
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![]() Quote:
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Last tank was 210 reef with 90 gal sump 120 , lps. 2xKessil A350W Tuna Blues, 2xvortech mp40 for flow,aqualogic 1/4 hp chiller, 160 lbs live rock. sohal, , pair of percs,flame dotty back , royal gramma, pair of black percs, niger trigger, mandarin 55 corner bowfront freshwater, African cichlids kessil a350 30 gal 36x36 coffee table fish tank. 3 red ear sliders. 5.5 gal nano, live rock, arrow crab, baby perc, firefish. |
#3
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![]() Don't try to rush the quarantine process, the fish should be with you for a possible 15 to 20 yrs.... a few extra weeks before it goes into the display is nothing.
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#4
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![]() Quote:
If your QT is fully cycled with a working canister filter, then you don't need the UV or Ozone. But I wouldn't cut the time short in the QT, if you want to be sure the new fish are healthy and strong before moving to the display tank. And I wouldn't use copper either. Why not give your new $400 fish the best start possible?
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Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. Last edited by Reef Pilot; 05-27-2012 at 01:49 PM. |
#5
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![]() Agreed. Essentially you're poisoning the fish with copper.
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Brad |
#6
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![]() Ok, but what about blasting the tank with uv? That should kill all parasites and speed up the process shouldn't it?
My thinking is that these very expensive fish might be more susceptible to ich and other pathogens , cause being rare, the collection and shipping process would be sped up. For ex. They catch it and ship it the very next day. Doesn't even stay in a tank for a few days. (that's what I would do if I was in that business) once shipped, it's the responsibility of the buyer. This puts a lot of stress on the fish, that's why I'm thinking of quarantining it if I buy one. Actually, it's because I saw a goldflake angel at j&l the other day dyeing.
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Last tank was 210 reef with 90 gal sump 120 , lps. 2xKessil A350W Tuna Blues, 2xvortech mp40 for flow,aqualogic 1/4 hp chiller, 160 lbs live rock. sohal, , pair of percs,flame dotty back , royal gramma, pair of black percs, niger trigger, mandarin 55 corner bowfront freshwater, African cichlids kessil a350 30 gal 36x36 coffee table fish tank. 3 red ear sliders. 5.5 gal nano, live rock, arrow crab, baby perc, firefish. |
#7
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![]() If I recall uv is only potentially effective (there are different opinions) at one stage of the ICH parasite life span, that being the short window when it is free swimming.
Using UV for a couple of days could only be considered "maybe effective" during that short stage. If the parasite is in a different stage of development blasting the water column with UV will do nothing towards reducing ICH. |