Squire's 90 Gallon Build, Now With Salt Water

[gregzz4]

Although The Grizz may be able to help you quiet down your Durso, I hate to say I mentioned awhile back in your build that Herbies are notoriously easier to deal with

I'm not by any means saying I told you so but it's something you should consider before you get too far along with your build

If you recall, I rebuilt my sump 3 times before I was happy with the noise and flow

It wouldn't hurt much right now to try some other plumbing, right ???

Herbies don't require downturned pipes or air inlets. Just a submersed main drain. Once the air is flushed, away they go with their full flow

I installed a gate valve on my main drain ( thought I would need it ) and I keep it wide open , with the pump bypassing in the sump as the pump is more than my overflow can handle ( my situation doesn't count here - my sump is only a few inches below my tank so there's not enough pressure to flush the drain )

I keep my main high enough that the box doesn't drain much when shut down and the emerg is close to over-full with a float valve above that to shut off the pump, just in case

Very simple
I haven't had to adjust it once since I started it last month and it doesn't go up and down more than a 1/4" in the overflow box

I wish I could say the same for the level problems I have with the other pump in my sump with the chaeto tank, uv, chiller, skimmer and reactors

[ensquire]

Originally Posted by gregzz4

Although The Grizz may be able to help you quiet down your Durso, I hate to say I mentioned awhile back in your build that Herbies are notoriously easier to deal with

It wouldn't hurt much right now to try some other plumbing, right ???

Herbies don't require downturned pipes or air inlets. Just a submersed main drain. Once the air is flushed, away they go with their full flow

I installed a gate valve on my main drain ( thought I would need it ) and I keep it wide open , with the pump bypassing in the sump as the pump is more than my overflow can handle ( my situation doesn't count here - my sump is only a few inches below my tank so there's not enough pressure to flush the drain )

I keep my main high enough that the box doesn't drain much when shut down and the emerg is close to over-full with a float valve above that to shut off the pump, just in case

Very simple
I haven't had to adjust it once since I started it last month and it doesn't go up and down more than a 1/4" in the overflow box

I wish I could say the same for the level problems I have with the other pump in my sump with the chaeto tank, uv, chiller, skimmer and reactors

I'm right at the stage of still having these options, I just hate not being able to get this system right
I'll tweak it a bit, and try the Durso guru's advice (Grizz) and will see what happens.

[gregzz4]

I hope you get it where you want it. I'm sure you will with Greg's help
Be a shame not being able to crank up that new bad boy pump

[The Grizz]

The only other thing that bothers me about your durso Mike is the big valve you have at the top. When I built Adams ( oxymoron ) durso all it took was a very small hole drilled into the cap to get it perfect. I cant remember what size it was but it was super small, I started with a 1/16" drill bit and worked my way up until it was bang on.

What size pipe did you use for the durso? if you cant get it balanced I will send you a new Tee, elbow and cap. All you would have to do is drill the hole. I will see if I can get Adam to take a couple pics of his durso from the side.

As for the syphon break, it is really strange that what you did there isnt working. A check valve would solve the problem but I am a little stumped.

Do worry about having all the water that passed through for sump going threw the skimmer. Most if not all systems are the same, not every drop of water goes threw the skimmer before it hits the DT again.

[ensquire]

Originally Posted by The Grizz

The only other thing that bothers me about your durso Mike is the big valve you have at the top. When I built Adams ( oxymoron ) durso all it took was a very small hole drilled into the cap to get it perfect. I cant remember what size it was but it was super small, I started with a 1/16" drill bit and worked my way up until it was bang on.

What was the flow like thru the gate valve ? I like to have as much flow as my drain can handle more than anything.
These things are all interconnected, so does one have the flow set before drilling holes. I liked the adjustability of the valve on top for that reason, but if it maybe the issue then BYE BYE it goes.

What size pipe did you use for the durso? if you cant get it balanced I will send you a new Tee, elbow and cap. All you would have to do is drill the hole. I will see if I can get Adam to take a couple pics of his durso from the side.

I used 1 1/2" pipe and fittings. I will look and see if I have a cap to experiment with. That is one fitting I can actually find in Yellowknfe.

As for the syphon break, it is really strange that what you did there isnt working. A check valve would solve the problem but I am a little stumped.

I honestly think that the issue is that the bulkead is so low in the overflow, the siphon will not break until there is no water above that point. I will try lifting the elbow inside the overflow, but I am guessing that the siphon will still draw until the water drops below the bulkhead top enough to draw air thru the bulkhead.

Do worry about having all the water that passed through for sump going threw the skimmer. Most if not all systems are the same, not every drop of water goes threw the skimmer before it hits the DT again.

Do or don't worry ??

[The Grizz]

Originally Posted by ensquire

Do or don't worry ??

No sorry typo, DONT worry

[ensquire]

Originally Posted by The Grizz

No sorry typo, DONT worry

Thanks man