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#1
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![]() Quote:
Also you want to check into the power supply and if it can be controlled. there are cheaper power supplies that are not regulated as much so this can lead to early failure, and controllability adds cost (although not much) and finally what is there heat sink and how is the temp managed, you can get systems that use a aluminum heat sink that is enough on there own then add fans as a back up, and you can get systems that if the fans fail your system will be cooked. allot of the companies now are using a heat sink material as the circuit board and mounting the bare LEDs directly to it. nothing wrong with this as long as it is rated for proper thermal dissipation, some companies will do this but use the cheapest material they can find then over size fans. So you really have to looking to the construction and parts used in the system. Steve
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#2
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#3
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![]() Quote:
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Brad |
#4
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![]() what your against informational posts now
![]() simple answer. yes you can do it but you will never be able to increase the intensity unless you drop the lights. but you have several options. the higher you lift your lights the tighter of a vewing angle you can use which gives you more par/intensity as a specific distance and better blending as your farther away. if this is the way you are leaning I would sugest going with something like the 50 watt LED cannons you could have a blue and white right against each other for perfect blending and you could probably recess them into cealing fixtures using optice to controld how big the spread is. I think that would be the coolest setup. no visable lights, just pots mounted into the celing and yet a tank that is still customizable in light color and intensity. you could use electronic dimmers/controlers that mount into a light switch housing and are controled by your computer. now quite trying to drag out of me what I have been working on ![]() Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
#5
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![]() What you should do is try placing them in various different spots and seeing what you like best.
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#6
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![]() I have an illumina 260 and run the whites at about 45% and both blue at 100%. I prefer the colour at this intensity, and the light is ridiculously bright once you get much higher, even at blue at 100%. Once the UV add ons become available I may add some, and add more that at that time so the spectrum stays pleasing to the eye.
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I'm out. ![]() |
#7
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I'm not 'fallow' you must be talking about my tank! |
#8
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![]() I was on the fence about the AI's and Radions as well. What's the point of ordering 3 or 4 of them for a tank when it seems like everybody is only running them at less than 50 %. Also, they don't seem to have a very aesthetically pleasing hanging system, so I just ordered a pair of these from Jeff at J& L. Should be the first one in Canada to get them.
http://www.kessil.com/products/a350_led_aqua_light.php I'm also very lazy and don't like playing around with programs. Set it and Forget it !
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Last tank was 210 reef with 90 gal sump 120 , lps. 2xKessil A350W Tuna Blues, 2xvortech mp40 for flow,aqualogic 1/4 hp chiller, 160 lbs live rock. sohal, , pair of percs,flame dotty back , royal gramma, pair of black percs, niger trigger, mandarin 55 corner bowfront freshwater, African cichlids kessil a350 30 gal 36x36 coffee table fish tank. 3 red ear sliders. 5.5 gal nano, live rock, arrow crab, baby perc, firefish. |
#9
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![]() Pretty much my point exactly...
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Brad |
#10
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![]() I run my AIs at 32% both white and blue (two on a 30x27x18" cubish). I cannot suspend them so if I ran at a higher % would blast everything as the tank is shallow. If you can suspend them up higher your idea of getting fewer should work and you should be able to maintain the colour of your corals. I don't have many SPS but the colour is pretty good on the frags that I have.
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