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#1
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![]() Yep. wc, wc, wc. for sure is a mini cycle from the move. feed less and wait it out.
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#2
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![]() how did you go about bringing the tank to your house??
ive moved alot of tanks to alot of houses any amonia i see is usually right away within days if there is any at all, with a tank that is five years old(if thats the case) it should be able to convert amonia pretty quick and at 2ppm( extremely high) your fish would have a hard time surving and corals would melt within days, but the amonia should decrease after a little spike not increase off the chart ,since the only die off would be what was released or very fragile(if transported right) what kind of corals do you have?? are your fish ok?? lights and temp?? your parameters are out of whack besides what you added for ph what else have you added ???
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#3
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![]() there are guys local that can help if you want that and what you are asking here, sorry we never knew you were there having trouble, feel free to pm if youd like Id be happy to come take a look or bring some water over here to test ,help get all those parameters in check.
Brent
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CAD 22 brent |
#4
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![]() if your new in the hobby i would take bkelly up on his generous offer its much easier to get a grip on alot of the questions you have if theres someone in person to shoot questions too, then he can set you on the right track or help point out any potential problems you could have
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#5
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![]() Sent you a pm, cheers
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CAD 22 brent |
#6
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![]() Hi Jan,
When we moved the tank, we put everything in buckets as it was too heavy to move with the sand in it. I talked to someone at j & l and they said that I should have put new sand in after it was moved but that was more for phosphates I think. I was having algea problems but they are getting better now. I am so sad I lost my anenome and the other corals. I am hopeful that I can get things back on track. Good luck with your move! Leanne |
#7
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![]() Are you using RODI for water changes or tap water? If you decide to do another large water change, make sure you use pure water & let it mix with a powerhead & heater for 24 hrs, that will stabilze the pH.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#8
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![]() I think you may have fallen victim to old tank syndrome. All of the crap that was trapped in the substrate is throwing you a curve ball.
Since hindsight is 20/20, there's no point in kicking yourself. I'd do the recommended water changes. Do a big one, and then do smaller ones daily for a week or so. Try: -Using ro/di water if you have access to it. Otherwise try filtered (RO) water from a local purified water store. Purified water stores don't usually put water through a DI stage, so the tds may be above zero. -Water changes are going to be the only way to bring those levels down. A big WC followed by smaller daily WC's for a week won't hurt anything. -Stop worrying about pH and buffering your tank. Rule #1, ignore your pH (within reason), you'll sleep better at night (okay, maybe not #1, but you get the point). I haven't compensated for pH in over a year. It's too stressful trying to keep up with it. And it changes daily based on your photo period. According to my graphs (click on my signature below), my pH varied from 7.83 to 8.45 in the past 24 hours. Last edited by cwatkins; 02-02-2012 at 03:31 PM. |
#9
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![]() Quote:
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Brad |
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ammonia, ph too low, tank not balanced |
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