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#1
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![]() the product was originally labeled cyano starver, but since the effect of the product is not limited to cyano, the name was change
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#2
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![]() Is it lanthanum chloride?
Edit: Didn't see that this was asked in the other thread nevermind. Last edited by lastlight; 11-30-2011 at 02:52 PM. |
#3
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![]() I've been using it for a few weeks now and it works well. I'm impressed. I used it to get down low and then use rowaphos to maintain a low level.
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#4
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![]() what "other thread"? And is it lanthanum chloride? Sure sounds like it could be.
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#5
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![]() I asked Aqua-Digital if the product is Lanthanum chloride in his advertising thread. Not surprisingly, the ingredients are not disclosed.
If it is indeeed Lanthanum, it will not be skimmed out, it has to be mechanically filtered out. It seems as though getting 100% of it out of a display tank setting is not possible and some people (including Randy Holmes-Farley) question what this precipitate will do over time if left in a tank. Personally, I wouldn't want to be dosing a Lanthanum-based product into a tank, but I would definitely use a Lanthanum-based product for curing base rock or high PO4 live rock. Be aware also that if more Lanthanum chloride is dosed than there is PO4 for it to bind to, then it will bind to CO3 and precipitate out which will deplete alkalinity. For the reasons listed here, I wish manufacturers would list ingredients so we can judge how best to use products instead of relying on manufacturers suggestions which are all too often not the best idea. Like say a Remora Pro skimmer on a 125 gallon tank? ![]() Last edited by Myka; 11-30-2011 at 04:16 PM. |
#6
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![]() Quote:
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#7
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![]() Hi Everyone,
There seems to be two threads on this product so I have posted there as well. Thanks for the interest in the product. Cyano Starver is the first version of the product without the buffer. I changed the name to Foz Down because it also works in freshwater and ponds. I have also added a trace amount of buffer to the Foz Down. The web page for the product will be up shortly. As with all of my products, they are produced because I use them myself, found them to be effective and reef safe, so I produced them to help hobbyists. About a year ago I switched from High Capacity Granular Ferric Oxide to the chemical behind Foz Down. I was tired of the monthly expense of 3 lbs of High Capacity GFO to remove phosphate from my coral grow out system. Since I feed heavily it generates a lot of PO4. Since switching to this product I have not had to use any HC GFO. I add the Foz Down directly to the 135 gallon sump and let it settle out. I test for Phosphate using a Lamotte Smart Colorimeter. I have been doing that for over a year. Since a picture is worth a thousand words here is one of a small section of the grow out tank. I took this pic on the 28th Nov 2011. Check for yourselves how colourful the corals are in a tank with Foz Down used for a year+. Granted I use 400 watt 20k Radium bulbs and have low nitrates. ![]() Most companies do not list ingredients for their special formulas. A couple that quickly come to mind are Kentucky Fried Chicken and Coca Cola. Numerous other foods have a listing called "spices". Cheers, Tim |
#8
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#9
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![]() So I have ran this for 2 days now and my Phosphates have risen daily...
0.05 t0 0.07 and then this morning to 0.10 Not sure why this would be...maybe my skimmer can't skim enough? Any tips? |
#10
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![]() Thanks Tim for jumping in here and clarifying that. I think that knowing that you use this product yourself on your own systems, and for such long term periods as well speaks volumes on your own confidence in this product. Also thank you for the clarifying the difference between Cyano-Starver and Foz-Down.
As to the difference between whether the inertified (I maded that word up myself just now, woot woot!) phosphate is skimmed or settles out, I think back a few years where it was accepted convention to dose kalkwasser for that it would also bind to phosphate molecules that then settled out on the substrate and sand. I would imagine that this is probably pretty similar. One should probably budget to replace sand every few years as matter of best practises - besides, there are not too many tanks that last longer than 5 years anyhow.
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |