![]() |
|
#1
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Or how about my cheap blade and some patience? I just snuck downstairs to test this idea out:
![]() I scored both sides of the valley and popped it out quickly in small bits to the depth of one ply. It's actually pretty easy to remove if you stick to ply-depths =) This took maybe 2 min. I'm going for it after I do a test going with the wood grain as well. Used the piece of drywall sanding screen to quickly sand inside the valley. I know I could do this even cleaner but once I paint this will easily look good enough. |
#2
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() that does look pretty clean!....... thats gonna take some time tho
![]() ![]()
__________________
260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#3
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() just thinking about that......it works going across the grain......gonna be harder going with the grain.....the blade will tend to follow the grain....
__________________
260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#4
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Hmmm brain-lapse. I had meant to post that I'm going to test this going with the grain as well first. I should be in bed instead of using knives maybe!
|
#5
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() It is indeed going to take time.
I would have to have my vertical lines match the vertical gaps between the canopy doors i think for continuity. and my horizontals would have to be the same distance from the stand ledge as the canopy edge to the bottom of the doors I think. I'll pencil them in and decide If I wanna commit ![]() |
#6
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
![]() |
#7
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() I know
![]() ![]() ![]()
__________________
260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#8
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() The front horizontal will be the full 8 feet and is against the grain.
The verticals on the stand and canopy are with the grain. So very short on canopy... but 40"+ for the stand's front. I think so long as I really giver'er against the T-square and cut through the surface cleanly it'll be ok. |
#10
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Yes I like talking to myself!
So it's a really good thing I remembered the skin was ghetto-built without mitred edges. It's just brick style like my 225 doors: ![]() So my clean lines would really be tough to creat once I hit plywood on-end. and then I don't have the benefit of chipping a ply-depth into the wood either. Here's what I will do. Way less scribing as well! ![]() Last edited by lastlight; 08-30-2011 at 06:52 AM. |