Canreef Aquatics Bulletin Board  

Go Back   Canreef Aquatics Bulletin Board > General > FOWLR

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-26-2011, 01:16 AM
DiverDude's Avatar
DiverDude DiverDude is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Calgary
Posts: 519
DiverDude is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jex View Post

Do it right from the get go in my opinion.
+1

I bought jugs of water to get up and running; spent nearly as much as a lesser RO/DI system doing it.
__________________
-Mark

29 Gal Bowfront w/24" LED Lights. DIY HOB Sump (5.4 Gal) MP40. Orange Spotted Watchman Goby, 2 Clownfish and a few hermits.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-26-2011, 02:13 AM
abcha0s's Avatar
abcha0s abcha0s is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Calgary
Posts: 545
abcha0s is on a distinguished road
Default

The problem is with evaporation. If it was just a question of water changes, you might get away with conditioning your tap water, but top up is a different story.

Only pure water evaporates. All of the TDS from the top up water stays in your system.

Anyways, if you want a stable system, you have to control what goes in.

http://www.conceptaquatics.ca/index....er-100gpd.html

- Brad
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-26-2011, 02:43 AM
lorenz0's Avatar
lorenz0 lorenz0 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: calgary
Posts: 1,317
lorenz0 is on a distinguished road
Default

you'll be fine. I'm 1.5 months running tap water on my reef tank and my colors are awesome and growth is great.

the funny thing is my ro unit is in the trunk of my car
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-26-2011, 04:27 AM
marineman41 marineman41 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Calgary
Posts: 25
marineman41 is on a distinguished road
Default

Thanks for all your input.
When I had my tank up and running 6 months ago in Texas it was a PIA driving all across the city to get water to fill the tank.
When buying an RODI unit is their a particular brand to go with? Or do they all do pretty much the same job?
I've read a lot about them. Bulk reef supply sounds like they have some good ones but the local shops in town have some too.
Any thoughts?
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-09-2011, 04:47 PM
molotov molotov is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Alberta, South Central
Posts: 199
molotov is on a distinguished road
Default

I also have a question regarding RODI units. Are all RO also de-ionizing units? Do I need to buy a marine grade one or can I buy an undercounter unit and have them do the same job?
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-13-2011, 04:00 AM
Cugio
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I just picked up a Hanna phosphate digital tester from Dave (concept aquatics) and tested my water. It is at 0.049 ppm. Should I be concerned? I only have LPS in the tank and would ideally like to move to SPS in the future. Tank has been up for almost a year and been running on Calgary tap water all this time. No algae issues at all except for the typical build up on the glass.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-13-2011, 04:52 AM
kien's Avatar
kien kien is offline
¸.·´¯`·.´¯`·.´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.´¯`·.´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸¸. ><(((º>
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 7,665
kien will become famous soon enoughkien will become famous soon enough
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cugio View Post
I just picked up a Hanna phosphate digital tester from Dave (concept aquatics) and tested my water. It is at 0.049 ppm. Should I be concerned? I only have LPS in the tank and would ideally like to move to SPS in the future. Tank has been up for almost a year and been running on Calgary tap water all this time. No algae issues at all except for the typical build up on the glass.
The phosphates likely did not come from the tap water. Try checking tap water for phosphates. It'll probably read zero. At least I read zero when I tested tap water for phosphates a few months ago.

Your phosphates are probably being introduced through fish food. If phosphates are a concern to you try running some gfo (granulated ferric oxide) in a reactor.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-13-2011, 05:02 AM
kien's Avatar
kien kien is offline
¸.·´¯`·.´¯`·.´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.´¯`·.´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸¸. ><(((º>
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 7,665
kien will become famous soon enoughkien will become famous soon enough
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by molotov View Post
I also have a question regarding RODI units. Are all RO also de-ionizing units? Do I need to buy a marine grade one or can I buy an undercounter unit and have them do the same job?
Not all RO units de-ionize. The De-Ionizing is performed by a special cartridge that is connect to the RO unit. You'll know if the RO unit does De-Ionizing if it is an RODI unit where the "DI" stands for De-Ionize :-). Although, some people do use the term RO in a general sense even if the unit does de ionizing as well. Confusing, I know. It is best to ask the vendor if the specific unit you are looking for does DI.

You don't need a marine grade one. Actually I didn't know there was even such a thing. You can use an under the counter unit.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-13-2011, 06:12 PM
Cugio
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Thank you Kien.

So the only reason to use RODI water is because of the total dissolved solvents and phosphate run off in the spring, if you get that. I was under the assumption that phosphate was a big problem with tap water but I also live in a new home with abs piping.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 02:52 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.