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#1
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![]() I think putting valves on overflow/drain lines is insane myself. The amount of water that would drain down any one that is properly designed should be miniscule, and obviously a sump should be able to handle it (in the case of a power-outage, etc...). I've seen people make the mistake of closing drain lines and having tanks overflow, or a partly-closed valve just allows opportunity for stuff to clog it. Risky IMO. The only exception is something like a herbie or beananimal overflow... but in those cases you have unobstructed back-up drains.
Just my 2 cents, Cheers, Chris
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No more tanks ![]() Cheers, Chris |
#2
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![]() Okay, well thats a consideration. I can always add the valve later if I need to i guess.
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#3
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![]() A valve on the return line for sure but not the drain unless you have two drain pipes in a herbie configuration.
Your drain size is fine Last edited by sphelps; 06-03-2011 at 01:16 PM. |
#5
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![]() i would probably go with a bigger drain.i'm using a stockman with a 2" drain
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#6
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![]() Quote:
windcoast, what pump are you using or plan on using? Last edited by sphelps; 06-03-2011 at 03:02 PM. |
#7
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![]() I have a gate on my drain, nothing on my emergency just it gets plugged. On the return I am running a check valve, which I reccomend. In 3 years I have not had anything overflow with this set up.
On my cube I had ball valves on the return and drain... no check valve. Now this set up I Had a spill once which fried a powerbar. everytime I did a water change I had to close the return line, there were a few times I almost forgot. |
#8
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![]() Quote:
Hey! Im using a Hydor seltz pump (800 gph model). I calculated the loss in the gph from the head and it equals out to about 500 gph. |
#9
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![]() Quote:
I can maybe step up to a larger pipe ( 1 1/4" or 1 1/2"), but I don't know if it is a benifit considering the bulkhead restricts the flow. |