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#1
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![]() uhh lets just say my fiances not very handy at all... ive done most of the repairs in the house haha
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#2
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![]() hA hA hA ... What a coincidence, I do most of the things around the house too ...
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#3
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![]() Cathy,
I have an extra Aqua-C Remora Pro HOB Skimmer on hand right now I am not using, and cannot seem to sell it, so I have it if you want to borrow a HOB Skimmer to do the job until your silicone jobbie is done. If you are interested, please let me know and we can arrange to get it to you ASAP. Then you can take your time about the draining and siliconing. Chin up, girl. Lenny. |
#4
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#5
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![]() If you can get your hands on some orca sealant from the LFS it can be applied right under the water, I installed both my overflows with the rock and fish in it when I switched to an overflow design from a bottom drilled tank. You just have to take a cloth and wipe the area very well to remove the slime from the tank and them apply the ocra glue over the leak.
re-siliconing the sump can be done if you can drain it and dry it out but that will take some time and is hit or miss. as for the center brace all you need to do is get 3 -2x4's and 2-45 degree plates and brack the tank and you can remove the center post. I did it when I installed my new sump and the stand didnt move a millimeter. They must be someone on canreef in Edmonton willing to lend a hand to help out! |
#6
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#7
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If you look at my tank thread you can actually see where I cut out my center brace. The tank is holding strong so far. |
#8
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![]() If it's anything like my marineland sedona stand, the center piece isn't load bearing, but more decorative for the doors to close against.
Examples: http://www.melevsreef.com/55g/55sump.html (1/2 way down the page). http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...php?p=14799737 (see post #8) |