quarantine tank question - Page 3

Lance · #21 03-03-2011, 12:50 AM

Nothing goes in my tanks without quarantining first. Aside from the fact of introducing nasties into the DT, I think it's important to acclimate new fish without the stress of competition. I have a 33g with a 20g sump with skimmer, lighting, PH's etc. I use it for a frag tank and QT. I can observe the new livestock and fatten them up before going to the DT. If I need to medicate I have a spare 20g ready to go. It might be a little more expensive set up than most but I feel it's necessary and it works for me.

naesco · #22 03-03-2011, 01:01 AM

When I got into the hobby I choose fish because they were, well, pretty.
If there was only one left at the LFS I bought it on the spot because I was afraid someone else would buy it and often another reefer was there looking at it too. The result was I bought fish that had little chance of survival in anyone's tank because I did not know better and predictably the fish got sick and spread disease or ich to others.
I did not know whether the fish was healthy because I did not know what to look for.

With experience you know whether the fish is healthy and you carefully observe it and put it is a QT if there is any sign of a potential problem.
I follow a garlic regimen religiously too ensure that ich will not develop for the first two weeks of a new addition.

As a newbie I bought 'medicins' that did not work and unintentionally over (more is better) or under medicated (metric)the QT with the result that I lost fish in the QT. Regrettably, I also got slack on QT water changes with the result that I had deaths as a result of probable ammonia poisoning.

Like many things in this hobbby (except the requirements of large tanks for tangs) it is a matter of preference. In either case you have to take care.

Thanks for asking. Oh ya, I use plastic pipe instead of live rock as the meds will kill anyting in the live rock. Almost daily water changes and sucking out excess food and detritus out keeps ammonia in check

daniella3d · #23 03-04-2011, 02:19 AM

Yes you do if you want to avoid ammonia. As you just said, it can raise really fast and without liverock, you would need to change water up to twice a day or more, depending on the size of the aquarium and the bioload. I never change the water in my QT...never have to. I just fill up the water evaporation and check the KH to make sure the PH is stable.

You don,t need liverock but without it you really risk losing your fish from ammonia poisoning. your choice.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mark

Amazing how fast ammonia can built up so test for, but easily handled by frequent water changes and again you don't need LR.

daniella3d · #24 03-04-2011, 02:32 AM

Sorry it's not a bad advise, it is a very bad advise.

Once you will get marine velvet and all your fish will be dead...then you will realize just how bad this advise is.

Too many people gamble with the live of their fish just from the laziness and lack of patience or knowledge to do a proper quarantine. When the quarantine stress the fish it is because it is not done properly. I currently have 3 fish in a 21 gallons and they are in great shape, no more ick, and they eat like little pigs. They are absolutely not stressed but I do have enough liverock to avoid ammonia (always 0) and to provide shelter. When I go to the tank to feed, they are almost jumping out of the water to catch the food. I feed them 3 times per day as much as they want to eat and that's a lot..still no ammonia.

2 more weeks to go and they will be ick free. I leave them in hyposalinity for 5 weeks then raise the salinity back to 1.025 over the course of one week.

What med will kill the liverock? copper. When do you need copper? for marine velvet. Marine velvet is rare but kill lightning fast. Most of the time the fish come in with ick and internal parasites. Hyposalinity does NOT kill the liverock biofilter at all. For parasite I use prazipro and it does not kill anything. It is reef safe even for corals. So unless someone has velvet and need to treat with copper, pointless to be without liverock.

but you did say it right..waste your time. Most people skip the quarantine because they find better things to do with their so precious time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by globaldesigns

Actually, I don't waste my time either with a QT... As I have stated many times, I don't believe in it, and in many ways doing a QT can stress livestock out more than its worth. Basically the less you fiddle with things, IMO the better.

So, I too recommend not using a QT, but as others stated, to each their own. This will be something that you will have to decide on yourself.

I don't think you can say that is bad advice, it is open to interpretation and to what one decides they want to do.

globaldesigns · #25 03-04-2011, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daniella3d

Sorry it's not a bad advise, it is a very bad advise.

Once you will get marine velvet and all your fish will be dead...then you will realize just how bad this advise is.

Too many people gamble with the live of their fish just from the laziness and lack of patience or knowledge to do a proper quarantine. When the quarantine stress the fish it is because it is not done properly. I currently have 3 fish in a 21 gallons and they are in great shape, no more ick, and they eat like little pigs. They are absolutely not stressed but I do have enough liverock to avoid ammonia (always 0) and to provide shelter. When I go to the tank to feed, they are almost jumping out of the water to catch the food. I feed them 3 times per day as much as they want to eat and that's a lot..still no ammonia.

2 more weeks to go and they will be ick free. I leave them in hyposalinity for 5 weeks then raise the salinity back to 1.025 over the course of one week.

What med will kill the liverock? copper. When do you need copper? for marine velvet. Marine velvet is rare but kill lightning fast. Most of the time the fish come in with ick and internal parasites. Hyposalinity does NOT kill the liverock biofilter at all. For parasite I use prazipro and it does not kill anything. It is reef safe even for corals. So unless someone has velvet and need to treat with copper, pointless to be without liverock.

but you did say it right..waste your time. Most people skip the quarantine because they find better things to do with their so precious time.

Too each their own. I am by far NOT a novice, and I choose not to quarintine.

This topic always has different points of views, all I am saying is that you shouldn't state something the way you did. you can state your opinion, as myself and others have ours as well. Then the Thread creator can make their own decisions. The way you and others put it, you are 100%. Well others like myself don't think so, and no one can really prove it either way.

It is like you stated 2 more weeks and your fish are ICH free, well some of us believe ICH is always present. Even some LFS believe this, and we are talking some well respected ones. So who is right? I guess who cares, you believe what you want and therefore practice what you wish.

Great day to all!!!

daniella3d · #26 03-05-2011, 12:50 AM

That's probably because you never did anything to get rid of it. Once you treat for it and you quarantine everything properly, then there is such thing as a ich free tank.

It,s not just a matter of doing a quarantine, but treating with hyposalinity each fish that come into the main tank. That's what I do and I have no ich.

You are probably right in your situation because your system is not ich free and never will be unless you do what's needed for it. I am also right because I am doing what is needed and my system is ich free.

Stating LFS as a reference is no reference though. I don't have to beleive what I want, I simply see the result...no ich. None, niet. Never any outbreak, nothing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by globaldesigns

It is like you stated 2 more weeks and your fish are ICH free, well some of us believe ICH is always present. Even some LFS believe this, and we are talking some well respected ones. So who is right? I guess who cares, you believe what you want and therefore practice what you wish.

Great day to all!!!

abcha0s · #27 03-05-2011, 01:32 AM

Daniella

I am very interested in your success with hypo salinity. As with everything there is some debate about it's effectiveness. I know that some of the people who hang around at WetWebMedia are less than convinced that it works. However, I know there are many people like yourself who have found it to be an effective cure for Ich.

Is there any chance you could start a new thread and talk a little bit about your process? - If you do, please let me know just in case I miss it.

Put a disclamer at the top of your post stating that the thread is for discussion around treating Ich, not debating whether "Ich is everywhere". I think you and I are equally frustrated when we here this myth.

- Brad

globaldesigns · #28 03-05-2011, 01:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daniella3d

That's probably because you never did anything to get rid of it. Once you treat for it and you quarantine everything properly, then there is such thing as a ich free tank.

It,s not just a matter of doing a quarantine, but treating with hyposalinity each fish that come into the main tank. That's what I do and I have no ich.

You are probably right in your situation because your system is not ich free and never will be unless you do what's needed for it. I am also right because I am doing what is needed and my system is ich free.

Stating LFS as a reference is no reference though. I don't have to beleive what I want, I simply see the result...no ich. None, niet. Never any outbreak, nothing.

Well Daniella3d, good for you... In my case I have only ever lost one fish to ICH, a Powder Blue, and that was almost 3 years ago, when my tank was new. So in saying that, I am quit successful with my fish, without quarantining or hypo. So explain why that is, I don't quarantine anything. As you state it, I should be having lots of problems then.... HMMMMMM..... As you stated also holds true for me "no ich. None, niet. Never any outbreak, nothing"

I guess what I am saying is what you say isn't the Godly truth and if you don't do it your way, its wrong.... Cuz that isn't the case. Many ways for many people I guess.

To the thread creator and others seeking knowledge, just take all advice in stride... Non of us can claim to be experts, so please just use your common sense. If you choose to QT, go for it, if not then that is fine also.

Baldy · #29 03-05-2011, 02:13 AM

That's pretty much the stance I am taking on the issue. I personally I'll quarantine all fish before they go into the main tank. It might be a different story if I didn't have another tank to use. I won't go buy an all new setup just to quarantine in a 29 gal instead of a 10. This is just the decision I've made based on the wealth of information that I've read.

Daniella, do you treat all new fish hen you qt before you introduce them to the display tank, or do you use it only as needed?

intarsiabox · #30 03-05-2011, 02:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by globaldesigns

Well Daniella3d, good for you... In my case I have only ever lost one fish to ICH, a Powder Blue, and that was almost 3 years ago, when my tank was new. So in saying that, I am quit successful with my fish, without quarantining or hypo. So explain why that is, I don't quarantine anything. As you state it, I should be having lots of problems then.... HMMMMMM..... As you stated also holds true for me "no ich. None, niet. Never any outbreak, nothing"

I guess what I am saying is what you say isn't the Godly truth and if you don't do it your way, its wrong.... Cuz that isn't the case. Many ways for many people I guess.

To the thread creator and others seeking knowledge, just take all advice in stride... Non of us can claim to be experts, so please just use your common sense. If you choose to QT, go for it, if not then that is fine also.

I wouldn't concern yourself over this thread any more, there's always someone on every forum who is critical about every idea that isn't their own. There are many ways to run a very successful tank and hopefully most people will be open-minded enough to look at all suggestions and decide for themselves what route they wish to go. If there was only one fool proof way of doing things then we could all buy the manual and have no need for this forum.