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#1
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So, I too recommend not using a QT, but as others stated, to each their own. This will be something that you will have to decide on yourself. I don't think you can say that is bad advice, it is open to interpretation and to what one decides they want to do.
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![]() Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk |
#2
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![]() Sorry it's not a bad advise, it is a very bad advise.
Once you will get marine velvet and all your fish will be dead...then you will realize just how bad this advise is. Too many people gamble with the live of their fish just from the laziness and lack of patience or knowledge to do a proper quarantine. When the quarantine stress the fish it is because it is not done properly. I currently have 3 fish in a 21 gallons and they are in great shape, no more ick, and they eat like little pigs. They are absolutely not stressed but I do have enough liverock to avoid ammonia (always 0) and to provide shelter. When I go to the tank to feed, they are almost jumping out of the water to catch the food. I feed them 3 times per day as much as they want to eat and that's a lot..still no ammonia. 2 more weeks to go and they will be ick free. I leave them in hyposalinity for 5 weeks then raise the salinity back to 1.025 over the course of one week. What med will kill the liverock? copper. When do you need copper? for marine velvet. Marine velvet is rare but kill lightning fast. Most of the time the fish come in with ick and internal parasites. Hyposalinity does NOT kill the liverock biofilter at all. For parasite I use prazipro and it does not kill anything. It is reef safe even for corals. So unless someone has velvet and need to treat with copper, pointless to be without liverock. but you did say it right..waste your time. Most people skip the quarantine because they find better things to do with their so precious time. Quote:
Last edited by daniella3d; 03-04-2011 at 02:37 AM. |
#3
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This topic always has different points of views, all I am saying is that you shouldn't state something the way you did. you can state your opinion, as myself and others have ours as well. Then the Thread creator can make their own decisions. The way you and others put it, you are 100%. Well others like myself don't think so, and no one can really prove it either way. It is like you stated 2 more weeks and your fish are ICH free, well some of us believe ICH is always present. Even some LFS believe this, and we are talking some well respected ones. So who is right? I guess who cares, you believe what you want and therefore practice what you wish. Great day to all!!!
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![]() Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk Last edited by globaldesigns; 03-04-2011 at 04:04 PM. |
#4
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![]() That's probably because you never did anything to get rid of it. Once you treat for it and you quarantine everything properly, then there is such thing as a ich free tank.
It,s not just a matter of doing a quarantine, but treating with hyposalinity each fish that come into the main tank. That's what I do and I have no ich. You are probably right in your situation because your system is not ich free and never will be unless you do what's needed for it. I am also right because I am doing what is needed and my system is ich free. Stating LFS as a reference is no reference though. I don't have to beleive what I want, I simply see the result...no ich. None, niet. Never any outbreak, nothing. Quote:
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#5
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![]() Daniella
I am very interested in your success with hypo salinity. As with everything there is some debate about it's effectiveness. I know that some of the people who hang around at WetWebMedia are less than convinced that it works. However, I know there are many people like yourself who have found it to be an effective cure for Ich. Is there any chance you could start a new thread and talk a little bit about your process? - If you do, please let me know just in case I miss it. Put a disclamer at the top of your post stating that the thread is for discussion around treating Ich, not debating whether "Ich is everywhere". I think you and I are equally frustrated when we here this myth. - Brad |
#6
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I guess what I am saying is what you say isn't the Godly truth and if you don't do it your way, its wrong.... Cuz that isn't the case. Many ways for many people I guess. To the thread creator and others seeking knowledge, just take all advice in stride... Non of us can claim to be experts, so please just use your common sense. If you choose to QT, go for it, if not then that is fine also.
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![]() Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk Last edited by globaldesigns; 03-05-2011 at 01:49 AM. |
#7
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![]() That's pretty much the stance I am taking on the issue. I personally I'll quarantine all fish before they go into the main tank. It might be a different story if I didn't have another tank to use. I won't go buy an all new setup just to quarantine in a 29 gal instead of a 10. This is just the decision I've made based on the wealth of information that I've read.
Daniella, do you treat all new fish hen you qt before you introduce them to the display tank, or do you use it only as needed? |
#8
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#9
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#10
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![]() Sorry for the misconception. I plan on quarantining all new additions, I was wondering whether to treat all new additions with hyposalinity while in qt, or only if needed.
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