Building codes for aquarium in mechanical room

Delphinus · #1 02-10-2011, 07:45 PM

My guess is they won't. The only thing the electrical inspector said to me when we talked about the tank room was "make sure you use CSL approved ballasts." The only thing about the floor drain for me was that I was draining the laundry sink into it and apparently this is a huge no-no. My advice is if you intend upon having a laundry sink make sure it's either: 1) drain is hard-plumbed and vented properly, or 2) not there on inspection day.

lastlight · #2 02-10-2011, 07:46 PM

Yeah Tony and I have had that conversation. My tub won't be there!

sphelps · #3 02-10-2011, 08:43 PM

I can seal off the mechanical room without any issues, the tank will be sealed air tight to the wall with no access to room except the door. I don't think it has to be that tight though since the requirements for the door do not have to be air tight so the tank shouldn't have to be either but my plan is to have it tight anyway.

I know you're not allowed a cold air return in the mechanical room for CO2 reasons but I do want to put an exhaust vent in the room to control humidity. I'm not sure if that is allowed either and if it is I would assume there will be a limit on the cfm and duty cycle unless it's interlocked with the furnace to replace exhausted air with make up.

Good news so far though, obviously my plan is plausible.

sphelps · #4 02-10-2011, 08:52 PM

I'm also guessing the actual size of the tank doesn't really matter, small or big same deal? No offense guys but my tank is going to be way bigger than yours

MitchM · #5 02-10-2011, 09:11 PM

If you're concerned about everything being legit for resale, I would pay extra attention to moisture control and ventilation.
I had 4 or 500 gallons in my last house basement with an HRV. When we went to move I found that there was a salt residue on all the light fixtures and corrosion had started to show up on the brass components of some light fixtures, plus on some copper sculptures.

It was a house built in the 1960's, and you're in a new house, but still something to watch out for.

Pansy-Paws · #6 02-11-2011, 05:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MitchM

If you're concerned about everything being legit for resale, I would pay extra attention to moisture control and ventilation.
I had 4 or 500 gallons in my last house basement with an HRV. When we went to move I found that there was a salt residue on all the light fixtures and corrosion had started to show up on the brass components of some light fixtures, plus on some copper sculptures.

It was a house built in the 1960's, and you're in a new house, but still something to watch out for.

I would concur with Mitch on paying particular attention to moisture and ventilation. Our fish room adjoins our mechanical room, and some of the duct work in the mechanical room has rust spots after five years. I've also fought condensation on the cold water pipes (take care if the electrical box will be cold from an outside wall)

sphelps · #7 02-11-2011, 01:34 PM

I'm not too worried about moisture, the sump will be sealed and the lighting canopy will completely seal the open top of the tank and then the canopy will be vented outside. I will also likely opt for concrete backerboard around the tank in the mechanical room side as appose to standard drywall. My concerns about building code are related to having a large body of water next to the electrical panel, I wasn't sure if this was an issue. Also if you're allowed to have an exhaust vent in the mechanical room, perhaps this can potentially cause a negative pressure situation more easily due to the location. I know you're limited to around 200cfm on other exhaust fans in the house unless you interlock, I will not be exceeding this by any means however the duty cycle will be higher than say a bathroom fan and again the proximity of furnace may also play a role. I guess what I could do is drill two holes in the side of the house and use one for exhaust and one for make up so the canopy is vented without using air from inside the house. However then I have to wonder if that will be acceptable, I know fire code limits you to so many openings on the side of the house, this particular side already has two large windows from above, a bathroom vent, cold air intake for furnace, two vents for furnace burner, vent for water heater burner, dryer vent, and exhaust vent. It already looks like Swiss cheese, could be a problem adding more vents.

As for tank size we're planning in the range of 1000 to 1500 gallons depending on the final basement layout, most likely will be approximately 10 feet long, 6 feet wide and 3 feet tall. Will be only viewable from one side.

Thanks for the input folks!

lastlight · #8 02-10-2011, 09:12 PM

I'm not sure about the CFM issue. I'm doing ALL the tank related stuff (tub and venting) after my basement is 'done' and approved by the city.

Makes me wonder...if I add this stuff on later and there was a fire...they find abs drain pipe, laundry tun and a venting fan not in my plans...am i no further ahead with the insurance company? maybe i still would not be covered?

How many gallons are you planning on?

Delphinus · #9 02-10-2011, 10:47 PM

Hard to say. Just don't have a fire or flood, I guess, so that we don't have to find out. That said, you're not going to get a fire caused by the sink in any case (one would think anyhow!

), it's the electrical I'd be more concerned about.

mark · #10 02-11-2011, 01:18 AM

Have a large room mechanical room as well that's doubling as a fish room. It's great with the floor drain, laundry sink and the top of the deep freeze is a good for a fragging table.

Though don't have a problem with humidity have noticed after 5 years getting some salt deposits on the furnace ducting that's over the sump (hot only, not the return).